Well, the weather was so lovely yesterday (and it’s the same again today) that we decided to go for one of our favourite walks from Fethiye to Kayaköy (aka the ghost village). As we’re supposed to be writing a blog telling everyone about all the lovelinessof Turkey, we thought we would post this walk. The views of Fethiye marina and bays are amazing.
Start from the Park Marina Vista Hotel (they’ve got a gorgeous seaside bar should you fancy a quick Efes Pilsen to psyche yourself up before setting off) at the end of the Karagözler. You can catch the Taşyaka/Karagözler dolmuş as far as there.
From here, take the road to the left so that you double-back on yourself and start to climb. It’s a gradual ascent but if you start to feel really out of puff as I often do, just stop and pretend you’re admiring the stunning scenery.
It’s a single, winding tarmac road at this point so you can’t go wrong. Just keep admiring the views over Fethiye marina and centre as you continue to climb.
After about 20 minutes or so, you’ll come to a junction on the road. The road straight ahead goes to Hillside Hotel. We’re taking the forest track to the left that you can see on the photo.
As you plod on up the forest track, you leave the views of the harbour behind and Red Island (Kızıl Adası) appears through the trees. Keep following the path up the hill and eventually, you will come out into a clearing – and a welcome flat part of the track for a breather. If you do this walk on a Sunday it’s usually busy here with Turkish families barbecuing and picnicking. Keep to the track, bearing right to continue uphill. Views over Tarzan Bay will appear giving the opportunity for another breather.
As you follow the track, you will come to a junction (see picture). Take the track to the left, continuing uphill to another (very similar-looking) junction…
Voila! Buyurun! There you go! Joy of joys. After about 200 metres, and a tiny bit more ascent, you will come to this fork in the track. The good news is, for this walk, this is the top. There are a couple of rocks just to the right that are just big enough to sit on and have a minute.
As you skip down this hill, after a few minutes you will be able to see all the ruins of Kayaköy nestled into the hillside. You also get to see Babadağ from a dramatic angle, just to your left. Even better if there’s still snow on top – this usually lasts till spring.
The track eventually becomes a road again. Follow this to the first junction (you’ll see a big tree on the left with a wall round it) and turn left. When you come to the next junction with a big tree in the middle of the road, take a right to bring you into the village square.
You’ll see all the local men drinking tea and playing tavla (backgammon) and okey. Look to the left and you’ll see what used to be the clock tower in the middle of the road. (We have no idea what happened to the clock). Turn right at the clock and this road will take you to the ruins of Kayaköy. Oh yes, by this time, you’re going be feeling a tad thirsty. Bülent, the owner of Bülent’in Yeri (on the roadside opposite the ruins) is always a happy looking chap and they serve lovely gözleme (Turkish pancakes).
Opposite Bülent’s is a track and a sign advertising Poseidon. If you fancy sitting and admiring the ruins – with a bit of good music thrown in – then Poseidon in Kayaköy is also a good place for a beer, food – and a soft drink of course.
- Allow between 2 and 2 and a half hours for the walk. Any walking boots, comfortable trainers or sturdy sandals will be okay.
- If you are feeling particularly strenuous then you can continue by trekking from Kayaköy to Ölü Deniz. (Allow a further 3 hours for this stretch.)
- If not, then don’t worry, there are dolmuşes back from Kayaköy to Fethiye every hour, on the hour (every half an hour in summer) and you can flag it down on the main road by the entrance to the Poseidon.