Gulf of Gökova - Akyaka

A couple of days ago, I posted a photo of the Gulf of Gökova near Marmaris. Sometimes, you view a beautiful bay from above and think, 'I've got to get down there.' You take yourself off down the hill, expecting a secret paradise. You arrive, glance around with hands on hips and think, 'Is this it?' And then the sense of deflation kicks in and you feel cheated. The awe inspiring view from the top of the hill suddenly reveals itself to be - well, the reality is a long way short of what you were hoping for. 

However, take yourself off down Sakara Tepe until you reach sea level of the Gulf of Gökova and you will hit the the beautiful, almost-hidden village of Akyaka. (The huge, gaudy road sign on the main road at the top gives the game away.)

 When in Akyaka, looking up can be rewarding!

Akyaka is special because all buildings must be built in a similar mock-Ottoman style with ornate wooden ceilings, window shutters and doors. Craftsmanship is alive and well in Turkey, it seems.  No high-rise buildings are allowed and, apart from a handful of hotels in Akyaka, accommodation is in these homes, since converted to holiday apartments.

The first time we went to Akyaka four years ago, we went on a whim when we were feeling a bit restless one summer's day in Fethiye. We went to Fethiye otogar, chose a random nearby place to go to and jumped on the bus. Not quite believing what we were seeing when we arrived in Akyaka, we decided we couldn't leave so soon and we just had to stay overnight. We traipsed up and down the two or three streets, knocking on doors, being turned away. No room at the inn. In the summer months, holidaymakers from the city of Muğla, just up the road, fill the pensions and apartments to bursting point. 

Ornate buildings in low-key Akyaka

And then, just at the end of the beach, dotted about the forest, we saw the campsite. This campsite is a very organised affair where you can hire a tent with (clean) sleeping mat and bedding. We were given a tent right on the hillside, surrounded by ancient pine trees and, when we unzipped the doors the following morning, we were faced with stunning views out to sea. This was all in my pre-digital-camera days so you'll have to use your imagination. 

The photos you're looking at in this post were taken at the end of December when we were on our way to Bodrum airport. Scenes from Akyaka on a dull, winter's afternoon and evening. (One day, we will hire a car and we will be blessed with sunshine on that day!) We were expecting a ghost town but there were people milling around, some of the bars and restaurants were open and they had customers. 

Akyaka's Blue Flag Beach

We walked along the promenade lining Akyaka's Blue Flag beach and stopped at one of the beach bars for a drink. Normally packed with sunbeds in the summer season, on this December day the sandy beach was home to a fisherman, five or six street dogs and a sign reading, 'No dogs allowed on the beach.' 

From Fethiye otogar, it's possible to take the Marmaris bus, get off at the Marmaris turn-off and walk to Akyaka in around 30 minutes.
Alternatively, take any bus to Muğla and you can either get off at the top of the hill (where you see the sign for Akyaka) and walk down - about 15 minutes - or continue all the way to Muğla otogar and then take the regular dolmuş to Akyaka. Note: this dolmuş is usually marked 'Gökova' rather than 'Akyaka.' 
If you're travelling by car, it's simple. Take a left onto the D400 and keep going till you begin to climb Sakara Tepe (you'll know!) just after the Marmaris junction. Akyaka is signposted to the left. Journey time from Fethiye: around 90 minutes.