Turkish Rock Night & A Duman Classic

A few weeks back, we did a post about going to see live rock music in Fethiye. We're suckers for live music of any flavour in Turkey, but we do love us a good rock band, so when we were told that the same band were once again playing at Cafe Pazar, well we just had to go along. 

The last time we watched these guys, we were still enjoying the balmy summer nights, but last Thursday, the decision was made to have the music indoors - a sure sign of the encroaching winter weather. We got there in good time to claim a table and enjoy an Efes or two before the music started.

Live music in Fethiye

There are so many talented live acts in Fethiye and this bunch are no exception. As we were indoors, the atmosphere was more intimate, drinks were flowing amongst everyone, a few Turkish tracks were sprinkled in amongst their usual set, guitar solos galore...

The acoustic section - Flamenco and Turkish

...and then an impromptu visitor suddenly turned up for a little cameo appearance. We know the guy on the left from way back when he used to play in Deep Blue Bar and he certainly knows his way around a guitar. These days, he mainly concentrates on flamenco-style music so, as you can imagine, after a few Efes Pilsen have been downed, and he breaks out into a Gypsy Kings classic...there was dancing to be done.

But there was another reason why we wanted to see the live music last week; we'd put a special request in to the band when we saw one of the guitarists the week before. We wanted them to play a Duman song. Any Duman song. We didn't care. 

Duman are the undisputed kings of Turkish rock (we think). We have an ambition to see them live at some point in our lifetime as we've heard they are pretty amazing. Alas, Fethiye has so far remained under the radar of these rock kings so we opted for the next best thing. On Thursday night we got a live rendition of Bu Akşam...

Apologies for the lighting - or lack of - but give this a listen. Bu Akşam is one of our favourite Duman tracks and this is a good cover! Enjoy!

Istanbul: Kariye Museum - Don't Miss It!

After having our fill of some of the tastiest köfte we've ever had, we felt warmed inside and confident that we couldn't be too far away from the the special building we were searching for: The Kariye Müzesi (Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora).
Istanbul is packed with unexpected pockets of interest and excitement that treat explorers of the city and, after waiting a while to cross the busy road at Edirnekapı, we took a right...and walked straight into another world, into a quaint, cobbled area; Kariye.

Quaint, cobbled streets and garden at Kariye Museum

Chora (Kariye in Turkish) means 'countryside' and Kariye has most definitely clung on to remain a more tranquil area of Istanbul. Pastel-coloured wooden houses line the road that leads to the Kariye Museum and it's not difficult to get a picture of the rolling green hills that must have surrounded this building in times gone by.

Kariye Müzesi - Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora

With its familiar Byzantine architectural additions, Kariye Museum resembles a miniature version of the imposing Aya Sofya. But while Aya Sofya takes your breath away and amazes with its sheer size, Kariye Museum more than holds its own with its interior treasures. 

Kariye Museum is famous for its mesmerising frescoes and mosaics telling the story of the life of Christ. Lets' take a look inside...

Chora Museum interior

As you can probably guess from the tale of the journey we made to get here, Kariye Museum is not packed with the thousands of tourists that crowd into the area of Sultanahmet. It's low-key, cosy and you feel as though you are in a small country church. Prepare yourself for an aching neck however because you're going to spend your time in this building looking up.

Painted dome in Chora Museum

Intricately painted, vivid in colour and covering every inch of the ceiling and higher sections of the walls, the frescoes and mosaics are stunningly beautiful and largely intact; more so than any we have seen elsewhere in Turkey.

Mosaics and frescoes in the Chora Museum

Before entering the museum, it's possible to buy an audio guide which you can listen to as you follow, in order, the images that display the story of the life of Christ. We didn't take this option, preferring to just stand in awe.

Mosaics and frescoes in the Chora Museum

In Istanbul and in Cappadocia, we have toured and admired sites that have left us with a feeling of wondering what they must have looked like when their frescoes were first painted and mosaics first created. Kariye Museum takes away the need for you to stretch your imagination. 

Mosaics and frescoes in the Chora Museum

As far as we're concerned, this little building of huge significance, nestled (almost hidden) in its pretty setting is a definite must-see if you are in Istanbul. 

Kariye Museum: Useful Information

• Entrance to Kariye Museum is 15 TL. The museum is closed on Wednesdays. Holders of the Istanbul Museum Card can use it to enter this museum.
• It's worth reading up on Kariye Museum before you go. We read information in our guidebooks and also found this really useful, dedicated blog: choramuseum.com
• Photographers take note: Set your camera accordingly - no flash OR tripods allowed.
• Getting there: we took the tram from Sultanahmet to Topkapı (this is also the stop for the 1453 Museum) and followed the city walls to Edirnekapı (about 20-30 minute walk). Buses from Eminönü head that way. Get off at the Edirnekapı bus stop. 
• This area of Istanbul is worth a good chunk of your time. We had planned to get the ferry from Eminönü to Balat so we could explore the streets before heading up to Kariye Museum. Alas, the bad weather forced us to change our plans.
• And if none of that sounds appealing (it's hilly) you can always make life easier for yourself and take a taxi! 

Istanbul: When Köfte (And A Nice Man) Comes To The Rescue

If you're a regular reader of Turkey's For Life, you'll know it's not the norm to see 'people photos' in our posts. We did a post on our favourite Fethiye helvacı back in May but that's about it. Well, today, we're happy to be able to add to that and double our tiny tally of 'people photos.' 

Durak Rumeli Köfteci
It was our last day and we'd just got off the tram on the hunt for Kariye Museum; my definite must-see of this year's visit to Istanbul. As it was my definite must-see, I'd taken charge of finding out how to get there (normally Barry's job) and if you know me, you'll know I'm not the best when it comes to ascertaining where exactly we are in the world at any given time. I amaze myself at my inability to point in the general direction of well known landmarks!

We were in Istanbul to take part in the Eurasia Marathon and the weather theme of our whole 5 days there was cold, wet, grey, damp. So, in our quest to reach Kariye Museum we battled the elements. We were getting tetchy. Neither of us were sure where we were but Barry was completely at my mercy and I would have found that amusing had the weather been in a friendlier mood. As it was, we marched uphill in silence (in the direction I was hoping was right), following Istanbul's ancient city walls on the right and a multi-lane, fast-flowing ring road to the immediate left. It wasn't pleasant.

The exterior of our the Edirenkapı köfte salon

From looking at online maps, my thinking was, 'If we get to Edirnekapı' (one of the famous gates in the Istanbul city walls), we can ask around when we get there and someone will help us.' 30 minutes of walking later, we'd tried and failed to cross a huge, busy main road, found and walked under its subway, negotiated a larger-than-we-envisaged terminus of tramlines and passed a couple of blocked city gates under restoration. Neither of the gates were labelled with their names. 

Stick with us here. You can picture our moods. We're not a couple who argue a lot, hence the silence. Hands in pockets, hunched shoulders, hoods up, me having a rough idea where we were (but then I always have a rough idea where we are and it's usually completely wrong) and Barry having no idea where we were. 

As we're trudging up the pathway, we pass a bus shelter. YEHEY! There's a sign inside that says Edirnekapı Otobus Durağı (Edirne Gate Bus Stop). Surely, Edirnekapı is along here somewhere...A few minutes later, we come to an archway. Again, it's not labelled but we head on through it anyway. It's got to be Edirnekapı.

A mini bus station greets us and a brown sign that reads, Kariye Müzesi. It's a road sign, pointing to the left but yes, I'm feeling mightily pleased with myself! We're in roughly the right area. Barry realises too and suddenly feels hungry. 'Let's just get some food in here before we carry on.' All of a sudden, the cold and the stress has disappeared and we head over to Durak Rümeli Köfte Salonu - a bus drivers' eatery.

The interesting interior of Durak Rumeli Köfte Salonu

We see 'Köfte & Piyaz' written on the window. That's us. A man, wrapped in numerous layers and woolly hat smiles a warm, friendly smile as we go to sit down at the outdoor tables and then points us inside. You never know what you're going to get when you go inside these smaller Turkish eateries. This guy just wanted us to be warm - and guided us to their makeshift storeroom just so we could be inside, out of the cold.

Köfte, piyaz and chilli relish

We wouldn't have come across the fabulously spicy, home made chilli relish had we not come to sit in here. After sampling it, we were getting excited about our köfte and piyaz. We were alone; the main kitchen and outdoor seating being next door to us. It was far from attractive but these are the places we get hopeful about.

By and by, our friendly köfteci presented us with a plate each of juicy, char-grilled homemade köfte, rice, barbecued pepper and tomato. Thick (even for Turkish standards) wedges of fresh bread followed, along with a serving of piyaz and two large cartons of ayran. I mixed a dollop of chilli relish into my rice and we both enjoyed a fantastic köfte meal. It was that good! Maybe even the best...?

This Istanbul köfteci made our day

And here he is. This area of Istanbul doesn't see the throngs of tourists usually queueing outside Aya Sofya and, of the tourists who make it to Kariye Museum, I don't think too many take the unorthodox route we chose. We've got no idea if this guy speaks English - we spoke in Turkish and he replied in Turkish (a rarity for us in Fethiye) and he was really happy to have a couple of foreigners in his joint. He was extra happy when we asked for a photo of him, too!

We did have a moment where we realised we hadn't asked about the price of anything. Our fault - we were too hungry, relieved and cold. Nothing to worry about anyway. Before we left, we were presented with a bill for 20 lira. A tasty, satisfying lunch and a bargain!

A few minutes later, we were wandering around Kariye Museum - but this episode sticks in our minds just as much as the museum experience...and Kariye Museum is special! We'll tell you in the next post...

12th International Ölüdeniz Air Games - First Day Photos

At the moment, we're still getting used to having a bit of extra time on our hands since the end of our busy summer in Fethiye and then returning from our break in Istanbul. Yesterday, the Fethiye weather was perfect; temperatures in the mid-20s, blue skies, pleasant sunshine. We had no fixed plans, no need to be anywhere in particular and so it felt great to just go and jump on the dolmuş and head over to Ölü Deniz for the day to watch the first day of the 12th International Ölü Deniz Air Games.

I took scores of photos so here are a few from Day 1 of the International Ölü Deniz Air Games

Welcome to the Ölü Deniz Air Games

Back in May, we braved the dark, moody skies to attend Acroludeniz. Autumn is being much kinder to us...and to the pilots.

Lonely brass band drum

A brass band kicked off events before handing over to those that enjoy decorating the skies over Belcekiz Beach with their colourful chutes.

The not-too-high hot air balloon

A new addition for this year's air games is the presence of a hot air balloon. Being that it's on a rope and is therefore unable to float off into the sky, it actually looked quite appealing. I've never been in a hot air balloon and can't say I have any ambition to make a trip in one any time soon, but if it's got a height limited to the length of rope it's attached to...maybe.

Acrobatic paramotors

Motorised paragliders or paramotors are quite a common site in Fethiye these days as they're used to advertise and promote upcoming events. Yesterday, we were treated to a full display of their capabilities.

Tandem paramotoring

Some people even took tandem trips along the Ölü Deniz shoreline.

Paragliders painting the Ölü Deniz sky

Well, it is the air games. We spent the day enjoying cold beers and straining our neck muscles, looking up. It was very much a day of flying objects dancing in the sky. And all good things must come to an end...

It's another Ölü Deniz sunset

...we watched the sun go down before once more jumping on the dolmuş and back to Fethiye.

The 12th International Ölü Deniz Air Games are taking place along Belcekiz Beach and run until Sunday 30th October. Entrance is free.

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Around Fethiye: The Fethiye Heads

Today sees the start of yet another new mini-series on Turkey's For Life. When writing a blog, it's strange how curious you become about surroundings you've always been aware of but never really taken much notice of. 

Along Fethiye harbour there are numerous bars, restaurants, street gyms and parks. There's also a fountain known to many as the Fethiye heads or more simply, the heads. It's not that we don't take notice of the Fethiye heads. We do. They're a perfect meeting place, 'We'll meet you at the heads at 12.' They're also a useful navigational source for helping people when they're a bit lost. 'Walk as far as the heads and then take a left.' Everyone in Fethiye knows the heads.

The heads along Fethiye harbour

But last winter, with a blog post about the heads in mind, we suddenly realised that apart from Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, who sits proudly aloft in the centre, we had never even stopped to look at who the other heads belong to. 

A busy summer ensued and the heads were unintentionally relegated to the back of our minds - until today. Today, we needed to walk into town, passing the heads en route. I took my camera along and stopped to photograph each one of the sixteen busts, making sure their name plaques were also in the frame. Already, this has been a most revealing exercise because we'd assumed that the busts were those of various sultans of the Ottoman Empire. Incorrect assumption! 

While we recognise and know a little about some of these figures, a bit of research needs to be done about others to find out why they were so important in the Ottoman Empire and the Republic of Turkey before we do this series of posts. But already, in just stopping to take a few photos this afternoon, we know more about Fethiye than we did this morning when we got out of bed.

Turkish Coffee - Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi

The Turks are very proud of their coffee and describe Turkish coffee as their gift to the world. Ask anyone in Turkey what the most famous brand of Turkish coffee is and, without hesitation, the reply will be Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi. 

These days, under the ownership of Mehmet Efendi's grandchildren, Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi is an internationally recognised brand, stocking supermarket shelves with filter coffees and espresso as well as their Turkish coffee. But it's not the supermarkets we're interested in. Whenever we visit anywhere in Turkey, we like to bring back souvenirs, and for us, that's usually food or drink of some description. When we were in Istanbul recently, we set off in search of a famous coffee souvenir.

Loose Turkish coffee about to be sealed

Tucked away on its original site at the back of the Egyptian Spice Bazaar in Istanbul is the historic Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi shop which still serves loose coffee to a never-ending daily queue of customers.

The serving hatch of Istanbul's Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi

The coffee is served through a hatch and, at first, we were put off by the long, outdoor queue. The weather in Istanbul was cold and wet and we didn't much fancy hanging around too long for a packet of Turkish coffee; famous or not. 

Packs of warm, freshly ground Turkish coffee waiting to be served to customers

However, we only had to watch for a few seconds - enjoying the warm coffee aromas wafting through the air - to realise this was a professional outfit. Obviously, they've been doing this for some time! Resembling a small factory line, loose coffee is scooped, weighed, packed, taped, piled, served, money taken, change given, next please. No time for small talk here. All of this happens in a matter of seconds so we decided to join the long queue of coffee appreciators. 

A 54g pack of Turkish coffee being weighed 

Within minutes, Barry had his 54g pack of loose Turkish coffee. Yes, Barry. Not me. Despite loving the smell of freshly-ground, still-warm coffee beans, I am yet to acquire the taste of Turkish coffee! Practise continues...but alas, little progress is being made. We did purchase some other Istanbul foodie souvenir goodies that I'll benefit from too, but we'll tell you about those another time.

The next step is to learn how to make Turkish Coffee!

Do you buy souvenirs to remind you of your visits to other places? Have you tried Turkish coffee and if so, do you like it?

Istanbul: Return to Aya Sofya

Six years ago we visited Istanbul for the first time, no doubt with the same aim as every other first-time visitor to the city; we wanted to see Sultanahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque), Topkapı Palace and Aya Sofya (Haghia Sophia). They were on our must-see list and whatever else we could fit in around those would be an added bonus. 

Istanbul cast its you-will-forever-be-addicted spell over us and, since that first visit, we've returned whenever we can, neglecting the sightseeing in favour of wandering back streets, sampling the huge variety of street food, people watching in bars. For us, just being in Istanbul is enough - but for our recent visit, we decided it was time to stop being lazy. We came up with an Istanbul itinerary which was to gee us up into reacquainting ourselves with the sights we'd seen previously as well as hopefully discovering some new jewels. Aya Sofya was our first mission!

Rediscovering Aya Sofya
The most amazing and mesmerising construction in the world? For us, that's a definite YES!

Entrance to Aya Sofya and a scaffolding-free dome

Aya Sofya was a favourite from our first time in Istanbul, so if we missed out on everything else this time, we just had to see the interior of this magnificent building again - especially since we'd heard the scaffolding had finally been removed from the central dome. 

Early morning and steady rain meant the horrendous queues we'd prepared for were yet to grow and we were through the turnstiles within minutes. We'd been here before, we'd seen Aya Sofya before, but nothing prepares you for the sight that hits you as you reach the grand entrance doors. Aya Sofya was designed to display the superiority of the Byzantine emperors over their subjects and to impress foreign visitors. 15 centuries later, these two foreign visitors did an involuntary intake of breath as we entered. 

 Virgin and child mosaic in Aya Sofya

Despite the constant crowds of camera-wielding tourists, the colossal dimensions of Aya Sofya effortlessly absorb all of this, leaving each visitor with a true sense of awe. 

 Looking down from the upper galleries of Aya Sofya

At the time of its construction, never before had a building like this, with its 30-metre dome, been attempted. One has to doubt whether anything similar will ever be attempted again - certainly not a construction that would still be standing after hundreds of years. 

Aya Sofya from the upper galleries

If you're a museum addict then your hobby can soon rack up the liras when visiting the museums of Turkey. For some places, it's difficult for us to justify the fees, but the 20 lira entrance fee to revisit Aya Sofya was more than worth it for us. Aya Sofya is a special experience rather than a mere building to be ticked off your been-there-done-that list. 

• The entrance fee for Aya Sofya is 20 TL. It is closed on Mondays.
• If you don't want to waste precious time in Istanbul standing in queues, get to the entrance gate for 9:00am-9:30am when the short queues are fast-moving.
• There is now a widely available Istanbul Museum Pass for foreign tourists in Istanbul. It costs 72 TL and is valid for 72 hours from your first museum entrance. If it's your first visit to Istanbul and you aim to see the main museums, it might be worth buying one of these. Although you don't save much money (unless you're making purchases at the museum shops), it allows you to jump the often lengthy queues. 

Fethiye: Return To Autumn Sunshine

Early yesterday morning we clambered down from the dolmuş, bleary-eyed after a night of travel on the bus from Istanbul, backpacks over our shoulder, waiting to cross the road to head off home. 

'Something's different,' Barry said. 'What's changed? It feels like we've been away for months.'

A crisp, Autumn morning in Fethiye

Nothing has changed in Fethiye. What's changed is our scenery. We've just spent 5 days in a huge city, crammed with an estimated 15 million people. 15 million people rushing around Istanbul's streets, wrapped up in winter scarves, hats and gloves, sheltering themselves as best they can from the grey skies and icy rain. 

Last week, we bid farewell to our summer season in Fethiye and revelled in joining the throngs of Istanbul dwellers for a few days. We even enjoyed hunching our shoulders against the newly-arrived winter cold as we explored the sights; ducking into cosy bars for the occasional respite.  

That's what looked so different as we got off the dolmuş and walked down the street towards home. It was a beautiful, still, cloudless autumn morning in Fethiye. The summer haze has departed, leaving behind crisp views of the mountains. Akdağlar have their first light dusting of snow on their tips, there's a pleasing heat to the sunshine and the sea is glassy and still. 

Fethiye feels calm, serene, vast in its open space, and it's good to have taken a few days away so we can once more return to appreciate all that is Fethiye.

Antique Hostel & Guesthouse In Sultanahmet, Istanbul

Regular readers of Turkey's For Life will know that whenever we take off to somewhere other than Fethiye, we're not going off with the thought process of money is no object. Money is the object for us. And these days, as one of us has hit our late 30s and Barry is not too far behind, our little budget breaks are becoming more of a challenge. 

Even since we started this blog, it's not that the general cost of an overnight stay in Turkey has increased particularly, it's more that, for us, the parameters have changed. Gone are the days when when we just said, 'oh, just a clean bed will suffice.'

Of course, we still want the clean bed - but we also want that clean bed to be in a comfortable room with an en-suite bathroom and we want that bed and bathroom to be in a friendly hotel / guesthouse / hostel (we're not too fussy about which one) with wi-fi connection in the rooms. Oh, and it's got to be convenient for easy exploration of the area. Breakfast (exploration fuel) is a necessity, too. You can see where our challenge lies: how to squish all these requirements into our limited budget.

View of the Marmara Sea from the roof terrace

We've just arrived back in Fethiye after a few days in the mesmerising metropolis that is Istanbul. We were there for a break and, because we were also taking part in the 2011 Istanbul Eurasia Marathon, finding the right accommodation was paramount. Oh, how we needed a comfortable room and a good shower. Oh, how we needed to stay in Sultanahmet! Well, the finish line for our run was in Sultanahmet - stumble over the finish line, pick up the medal and then stumble straight to the digs for a shower. Perfect!

Antique Hostel & Guesthouse, Sultanahmet, Istanbul

It was during our we-definitely-need-a-good-shower-after-the-run conversation that I remembered we'd stayed at Antique Hostel & Guesthouse in Sultanahmet in 2010 for my birthday. The rooms had been just about within our budget and, most importantly, they were clean, comfortable, roomy, the shower was powerful and the water, hot. A quick search online revealed they had a double, en-suite room free so we wasted no time in booking it.

 Our room at the Antique Hostel & Guesthouse, Sultanahmet, Istanbul

This time, we were in a different room to the one we stayed in in 2010 but all was still well. A warm room (it was so cold outside), comfortable bed, room to manoeuvre, a wardrobe, drawers to unpack clothes and a chair to sit in. Also, the hot, powerful shower I remembered was there too, as well as a buffet breakfast that was served on the roof terrace. So, not only did we have the room we wanted, we also got views over the Marmara Sea to the Prince's Islands whilst eating breakfast. 

These last few days have been our favourite Istanbul break for us (and we've had a good few breaks in this city!) but that's been partly due to our accommodation at Antique Hostel & Guesthouse. We wanted to visit Aya Sofya and Sultanahmet Camii again while we were in the city and the hostel is just round the corner from both. The metro tramway is also just a few minutes' walk away...as is the finish line for the Eurasia Marathon and 15km run. I think we may well be back to stay here another time in the future...  

Antique Hostel & Guesthouse is on Kutlugün Caddesi, Sultanahmet.


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Istanbul: Eurasia Marathon Expo 2011

The first time we took part in a running event was last year in the 2010 Eurasia Marathon in Istanbul. Barry did the 15km and I did the 8km run. We had to go to the expo the day before to pick up our numbers, timing chips, eat some free pasta and then I thought that would be it. But we were surprised to see all the other stands and fitness equipment on offer. These expos are full of little stalls to tempt you further into the world of running.

Istanbul Eurasia Marathon Expo clothing stalls

This year's expo was in the Istanbul Exhibition Centre in Taksim and there were scores of stands selling expensive running equipment geared towards the more professional type runner. Lightweight t-shirts that magically remove sweat from the body and allow air to circulate, knee socks that massage the calf as you run, trainers that twist and turn in multiple directions to support the foot, hand gloves,hats, headbands, heart monitors, calorie counters - whatever you can think up, it's available at these expos. We wouldn't call ourselves 'the professional-type runner' so we just wander around and glance at all this weird and wonderful equipment...and hope that what we've already got will suffice.

Yes, we run Istanbul - well, part of it anyway

This year's Istanbul Eurasia Marathon was sponsored by Nike, so when we went to pick up our numbers, we also got some other goodies. One of the goodies was a t-shirt - and not just any old t-shirt. We are now the proud owners of a FREE Nike running t-shirt. One of those magic, expensive keep-the-sweat-away t-shirts. See, you don't have to go splashing out good money on all this equipment. Join in a run and you get them at no extra cost to yourself. We didn't wear our t-shirts yesterday for the actual run; superstition told us to wear exactly the same clothes as we've been training in. 

And then there are the stalls plugging further running events in other parts of Turkey and Europe. We're tempted again! Maybe Athens, Rome, Ankara, Şanlıurfa - or a very tempting one next May on the island of Bozcaada - an island we've wanted to visit for some time. What better excuse than to go there for a run? And of course, there's the 2012 Istanbul Eurasia Marathon to look forward to...Like we said, these expos suck you further into the world of running!

Greetings From Rainy Istanbul

What's the purpose of coming up with an itinerary for a jaunt to Istanbul, if not to completely ignore it? That's not too far away from what's happened with us and it just shows that we're better at being spontaneous rather than organised. 

Continuous rain has put pay to a few of the activities on our list so we've had to come up with some more practical alternatives. Not surprisingly, there's no shortage of things to do in Istanbul so we've not struggled. 

We've also just completed our runs in the 2011 Istanbul Eurasia Marathon - I've done my first 15k run and Barry's soldiered through his first ever marathon. I think I can safely say, we're not going to be moving anywhere too far this afternoon or tomorrow! Luckily, we've found a great little bar just a few doors from where we're staying so we don't even have to get too wet while we're hobbling there. 

I've got hundreds of photos on my camera and we've got loads of posts lined up. We just need to get them on the blog now. First things first though...a well-earned Efes! 

Sundial Sunset Over Fethiye - Farewell To Our 2011 Summer Season

In a few hours' time, we'll be on a bus heading up to Istanbul for a well-earned break. Not that there'll be a lot of resting going on - too much Istanbul sightseeing to be done - but the change of scenery and just being in our favourite city is enough to replenish energy that's gradually sapped away over the busy summer. 

So, what's the relevance of today's photo? If you're familiar with Fethiye, you'll know that this is a photo of the sunset over Fethiye bay, taken from the Sundial. What's that got to do with Istanbul?

Sunset over Fethiye Bay, viewed from the Sundial

This is our sunset on summer. We still have friends out here on holiday who we'll say goodbye to later on this afternoon. We'll spend 5 not very warm days in Istanbul (the weather forecast isn't great) and by the time we get back to Fethiye, our friends will be back in the UK, leaving both us and Fethiye in winter mode. 

The winter clothes have already been dug out so we could pack something a bit warmer for our trip - and yesterday, the all-telling message appeared in our Facebook stream. The Sundial announced that their cosy, winter open fire was back in its rightful place in the centre of the restaurant, ready to keep us warm while we listen to the crackling of burning wood and admire views like the one above.

(As usual, we'll be taking the laptop to Istanbul with us and will try to do a few posts while we're there.)

Istanbul Eurasia Marathon 2011 - 5 Days To Go

On Sunday 15th October, we'll be in Istanbul, taking part in the 2011 Istanbul Eurasia Marathon. Barry is registered for the full 26.2 mile stretch whereas I'll be doing the 15k (9 miles). For both of us, it will be the furthest we have ever run and the idea was to do a bit of a charity fundraiser so that good causes could be supported and we'd be spurred along to keep going when we got really tired.
However, not everything in life goes according to plan. We've been following our training plans for the last 4 months or so and during that time, Barry picked up an injury. For a while, he was uncertain if he was going to be able to take part and it's been a wait to see if his leg improves. Fortunately, training has picked up again and he's decided to go ahead as planned.

Give the lids from your water bottles to Adım Adım

Obviously, we didn't want to start up a fundraiser in the UK and ask people to sponsor us, knowing that we might not even be running, so we've put that on hold for the next run we take part in. 

But you can still help.
If you're in Turkey, you can help an organisation of amateur athletes who run a non-profit initiative called Adım Adım. We came across these guys last year at the 2010 Istanbul Marathon and then again at Runtalya, back in March of this year. They've been around since 2007 and take part in various sporting events, raising money and distributing it to different causes such as the Turkish Spinal Injury Association and the Community Volunteers Foundation.

For the last couple of months or so, Adım Adım have been running a campaign and are asking you for your bottle tops from your plastic water bottles. No shortage of those in Turkey! The bottle tops are going to be used to raise money for wheelchairs.  If you're in Fethiye, Tansaş supermarket have a big box by the exit where you can leave your bottle tops and, before we leave for Istanbul, we'll be throwing our lids in there as a way of sponsoring ourselves for our run. 

For more information about Adım Adım, they have an English page on their website.

Around Saklıkent Gorge - What To Do Once You've Hiked The Gorge

It's over a week since we went for a day trip from Fethiye to Saklıkent Gorge and something in particular has struck both of us. The phrase 'Saklıkent Gorge' conjures up images of ambling along the raised walkways and then performing a balancing act through the rapids in the hope of reaching the other side unscathed so you can walk the rest of the canyon. 

But, when you've done all that many times, what's the attraction? And that's what's struck us. We had a really pleasant, chilled day outside the actual gorge. We've said in the past on this blog that the Xanthos Valley is one of our favourite areas of Southwest Turkey and, at Saklıkent, you're nestled nicely, deep in the valley. 

 View of the seating areas outside Saklıkent Gorge

Relax
Granted, these bridges are not the prettiest....and there's a makeshift, temporary feel to all of the seating area just outside the entrance to the gorge (a few winters previously, heavy storms washed the whole thing away and this resurrection is the result of that). But, once you're sat on the cushions, Efes in hand, feet in water, life's good! In fact, this is the area where we would have chosen to eat had we not received the tip from friends about where to eat lunch at Saklıkent Gorge.

Waterfall outside the entrance to Saklıkent Gorge

In low season, close your eyes and the soothing chorus of the gushing rapids and waterfalls make you feel like you're the only person there. High season - well, you might need to work a bit harder to kick your imagination into action - but Saklıkent is still worth the visit, nonetheless.

River rafting at Saklıkent Gorge

Go Rafting

Whilst lolling around on the floor cushions in an almost horizontal position, we watched as a continuous flow of more adventurous types set off down the river as part of the very popular river rafting trips. Being a lazy spectator was more than enough activity for us on our visit.

Shop For Home Made Produce
But one of the main things we love about tourist attractions like this is the local villagers setting up stall in the hope that some of the thousands of visitors will take a shine to their wares. We're suckers for a food stall! 

Food shopping at Saklıkent Gorge

We bought a bottle of home made smooth, syrupy nar ekşisi straight away, but this stall was particularly interesting because of the other goods for sale. The lady opened the jars of harnup pekmezi and andız pekmezi for us to sample. Harnup is the carob pod that grows all over southern Anatolia and is used to make diabetic chocolate. The pekmez (molasses) had a rich chocolate flavour and my immediate thought was how good it would be to add a spoonful to a chilli con carne.

The andız pekmezi, neither of us had heard of until we saw it here. We've looked it up since and andız is a white berry that belongs to the juniper family. Again, it's prevalent in Southern Anatolia, as is the making of andız pekmezi as a result. Both of these products were being sold  for their apparent health benefits which were explained on the sheets of paper they were resting on. My regret is that I didn't get a photo of the writing on the sheets so we could translate it at home.

So, our umpteenth visit to Saklıkent Gorge has left us with happy memories, not of the usual hike through the gorge but of relaxation by the river with good company, cold beers and fantastic food. And we've got a souvenir of nar ekşisi that will refresh the memory each time we drizzle it over our fish and salads.

Istanbul - Planning Our Trip

Well, what an eye-opener this has been. Whenever we used to go on holiday, we used to love sitting on the sofa, surrounded by guidebooks, planning our day trips around 'pool days.' It was a simple, enjoyable task that we used to look forward to because it fuelled the excitement and anticipation of what was to come.

But what does one do with Istanbul; a huge, sprawling, magical wonderland that is impossible to leave with the thoughts of, 'Well, it was okay.' Istanbul leaves the visitor overwhelmed by the number of sights to see, the things to do, the food to eat, the places to stay. And that's why we have to keep going back for more.

View of Karaköy & Galata Tower from Eminönü, Istanbul

When it came to planning our first ever trip to Istanbul, life was easy. Blue Mosque: Check. Aya Sofya: Check. Topkapı Palace: Check. These usual suspects and more were added to our list and we duly traipsed around each magnificent building. (If you're visiting Istanbul for the first time and would like some good introductory tips, take a look at 48 Hours in Istanbul.)

We've returned to Istanbul numerous times since then, soaking up the bars, devouring the hamsi at Karaköy fish market and losing ourselves in the vast maze of streets...and sightseeing has become pushed well and truly to the back burner - until now! It's taken over a week to complete, but we've made a plan; we're going to acquaint and reacquaint ourselves with some of the sights of Istanbul.

There are three reasons for this:

1. The first time we were in Istanbul, I was refusing to accept the existence of digital cameras. I took hundreds of photos, all of which are now lost somewhere in someone's garage in England. It's time I got some new photos.
2. We've done many Istanbul posts on this blog and as far as we're concerned, many of the main tourist sights are glaring omissions in the content. They more than deserve to be there.
3. The most important reason: It's easy to think, 'Seen that. Done that. Been there.' These buildings are amongst the most beautiful, significant structures in the world, both architecturally and historically. It's many years since we last entered them and, having read up on Ottoman history since then, we'd like to re-enter with new eyes. 

So, what's on the agenda for our 5 days in Istanbul? We've had a good laugh coming up with this plan because bear in mind, we've got a 15k run and a marathon right in the middle of all this...some of our list just might not happen! 

Sultanahmet Camii - The Blue Mosque - Istanbul

Friday: *Pick up our running bibs and eat lots of free pasta at the marathon expo near Taksim. *Go to the top of Galata Tower (see top photo) just to take photos across Istanbul. *Wander around Çukurcuma and then make our way down to Tophane by the shores of the Bosphorus. 

Saturday: *Wake early to get in the queue for Aya Sofya. We remember these queues all too well but never has anything been so worth it. Can't wait to get back inside this building! 

Aya Sofya, Istanbul

*Later, visit Sultanahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque) to reacquaint ourselves with the interior. Sadly, my overriding memory of this place is just lots of people. I'd like to replace that with a better memory. We'll see if that's possible. *Afterwards, jump on the Metro as far as Kabataş and then stroll the rest of the way to Ortaköy for photos of the Bosphorus Bridge, Büyük Mecidiye Camii (Ortaköy Mosque) and to eat the amazing kumpir (jacket potatoes) that Ortaköy is famous for.

Sunday: *A small matter of running the 2012 15k and  Eurasia Marathon. Who knows what's going to happen after that? *Barry's legs permitting, pencilled in is Süleymaniye Camii, my favourite mosque. Let's see!

Monday: Bosphorus Cruise. This is a day-long trip involving lots of sitting down which we figured we would need after Sunday.

Tuesday: Kariye Museum (The Church of St. Saviour in Chora). Apparently with some of the most beautiful and best-preserved mosaics of the Byzantine era, how can we not go there? It'll be our first visit here and we can't wait!

Do you make an itinerary whenever you visit somewhere new? We're excited because it's a long time since we've gone anywhere with any particular plan in mind.

Get Prices For Hotels In Istanbul On Turkey's For Life

Lunch at Saklıkent Gorge: One Step Ahead Of The Jeeps

"When we get to Saklıkent Gorge, some friends have told us to go to this restaurant over the bridge for lunch because it's only 10 lira and it's really good," enthused our friends as we sat on the dolmuş, waiting to leave Fethiye. "The only thing is, you've got to get there before the jeep safaris arrive, otherwise it's really crowded."

My mind immediately wandered back to the time, 3 or 4 years previously, when we had all piled out of jeeps at that very restaurant, slapped buffet food on our plates and plonked ourselves down at a table in school-dinner-fashion. We all wolfed the food down and then we were out of there as quickly as we had arrived. All of a sudden, the expectations I had of our upcoming, lazy Saklıkent lunch by the water were pushed away and replaced by disappointing canteen images.

Entrance to the restaurant in Saklıkent

By the time we arrived at Saklıkent, we were too hungry to care about where or what we might be eating and headed straight across the bridge in search of Kayıp Cennet Restaurant. We didn't need to look far as we were faced with this not unnoticeable sign as soon as we rounded the bend...and there were the rows and rows of tables I remembered from years before, waiting for the masses. Thankfully, they were currently empty.

A waitress greeted us and confirmed that the price was indeed 10 lira. "Choose anything you want from the buffet, then you can choose between chicken, trout or köfte and we'll cook it on the barbecue for you. There's some seating over there by the river if you like." So, we didn't have to sit at the rows of tables, after all? Things were looking up.
The waitress passed us a tray with two plates on it. Now, what do you do when you go to a buffet? Us, we've got to try a bit of everything and there was a lot to choose from!

Meze and salad fridge number 1

The first section of the fridge had a crunchy salad of red and white cabbage, spaghetti, bean salad, lightly spiced Turkish potato salad, bulgur wheat and a white bean salad (not quite piyaz). On top were bowls of delicious, pickled red cabbage, mixed pickled vegetables, a mayonnaise-based potato salad and pickled beetroot. That was plate 1 piled high!

Meze and salad fridge number 2

Plate 2 was duly piled high with a wonderful roasted aubergine and sweet red pepper salad (oodles of olive oil!), I skipped the pasta, an extra large spoonful of delightful, spicy Antep Ezmesi (it was homemade, hand chopped and closely resembled our Antep Ezmesi recipe), spicy pickled cauliflower salad, and a sauerkraut salad.

And the main meal was yet to come

Oh, and I just had to take a wedge of bread as well. We all headed towards the seating by the river, heavy trays in hand. All of us had taken the opportunity to sample just about everything on offer - well, it just looked so good. Weaving through the rows of tables, we arrived at the seating built over the river. Perfect!

A peaceful setting over the 'cool' waters of Saklıkent

Ice cold bottles of Efes Pilsen were brought to our tables as we made ourselves comfortable on the cushions and all of a sudden we were very popular with the beautiful white ducks that were swimming along the river. As we began to tackle the feasts we had served ourselves, we remembered we still had our köfte to come, too. With all the food offered at the buffet and the low price being charged for it, logic told us it would just be a small plate perhaps with a couple of köfte looking lost in the middle of it.

 Main meal of barbecued köfte

Sometimes, especially in Turkey, logic does not prevail. 4 home made, juicy, barbecued köfte were served with real chips and Turkish rice. Somehow, we managed to get through all of our food - although I did give most of my bread to the ducks - and it left us struggling to finish our beers, but we got there, eventually....
This is the sort of place where you take your time, lounging on the cushions between mouthfuls and dipping your feet into the river. It all made for one of the best lunches we've had in a long, long time.

Eventually, the time came to move on so we hauled ourselves up from our cushions and went to pay...and as we did so, the jeeps descended. Perfect timing!

2 plates of self-service meze and salad followed by a choice of köfte, trout or chicken costs 10 lira per head.
A large bottle of Efes Pilsen costs 5 lira.
We arrived at the restaurant just before midday and left around 1:30. 
Although it's not actually in Fethiye, we're putting this meal in our Fethiye Cheap Eats section just because it's fantastic value and many people visit Saklıkent on a day trip from Fethiye.