Living In Fethiye – A Day In The Life Of…

We have random off-season days like that in Fethiye; a day when the electricity board declares there will be no power for the whole town until such-a-time on that day. Yesterday was one of those days. No electricity between 7:30 am and 3 pm due to upgrades. We don’t question. We just get on with it, as does the rest of Fethiye. Granted, a lot of people chunter and grumble…but what can you do on a day like that?

Well, the electricity-free days – meaning, the aaarrgh-no-internet and no tv days – actually thrust you back into a few moments of (what used to be) normality: conversation and activities other than sitting and staring at the laptop. Of course, we do get out and do other things but on days like yesterday, we have to think about it more. And so it started with some cleaning of the house and the sorting of winter clothes. But what we were really looking forward to, more so than usual, was our trip to Çalış market.

Çintar Mushrooms, Çalış Market

Cintar Mushrooms at Çalış Market

Oh, what abundance November brings. When we’re not munching our way though hamsi, we’re on the look out for these fabulous çintar mushrooms. Our trip to the market yesterday morning was rewarded with these specimens. We bought half a kilo, did our usual shopping and then went for gözleme. Well, we had time on our hands…

Spicy Turkish Pickles At Çalış Market

A bowl of mixed pickles (turşu)

We’re no strangers to turşu (pickled vegetables) so we asked for an empty bowl while we waited for our gözleme. We soon filled it with mixed pickles from the huge plastic tubs on the tables. It’s been a few weeks since we had gözleme. You can forgive us for being excited. No electricity needed here (remember, we were in a pre-arranged power cut), the ladies cook over gas.

Gözleme At Çalış Market

Gözleme At Çalış Market

Our meat and potato (lots of meat yesterday) gözleme arrived, we sprinkled with ample salt, wrapped each piece around a pickle and munched our way through it while washing it down with çay and ayran. No electricity since 7:30 am, it’s lunchtime and all is well. We stroll home with our shopping and pack it all into our newly-defrosted fridge.

A bit more cleaning, but the weather is exceptionally pleasant and it’s Sunday. A walk along the harbour seems to be a good idea.

Fethiye Harbour

Fethiye harbour was a pleasant place to be yesterday

We’re right to take the stroll. The harbour’s full of strolling, fishing, promenading families – well, nobody has electricity, it’s Sunday, it’s a sunny day. What else are you going to do? The (without electricity) restaurants are packed with customers and the rumble of distant generators can be heard. We walk to Shaka and wonder if the beers will be cold…

Beer At Shaka, Fethiye

A cold beer, despite lack of electricity

Cold enough for us, it looks like. We enjoy a beer by the sea and then at 3 pm – dead on – the music is suddenly heard through the speakers. Once we arrive home, life is as it was previously…laptops on, emails checked, procrastination on Facebook, photos uploaded, blog post. Life in Fethiye resumes.

Arranged power cuts are quite common in Fethiye on winter Sundays. Yesterday was pleasant – the sun helped us out. This blog post would have been a lot different had the wind been howling and the rain torrential…but, this time, neither of those weather situations happened fortunately…

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  1. It shows you can still have a lovely day without power and all the gadgets of modern life. I envy you living there, I have to wait until September again.

  2. @ Anne Mackle: It’s really nice sometimes isn’t it. I guess being in Fethiye on a beautiful day helps. 🙂

  3. The weather looks amazing for the end of November. Wish we were there, but it’ll be April before we’re back. I guess that will be here before we know it!!!

  4. @ julesbob0303: Everyone’s talking about how lovely it is. We’re always out walking at the moment, it’s so nice. Wish we could pass some Turkey weather over to the UK. And yes, once you get Christmas out of the way, April will be here before you know it. 🙂

  5. Definitely looks like it was a lovely day! We don’t own a TV and our friends here always joke, what do you and your husband do at dinner without a TV? We talk of course, and every now and then watch a DVD on the laptop. 🙂

  6. @ Joy: We’re exactly the same as that and we get laughed at, too. We did have a TV but never watched it so gave it to a friend. we catch up on the odd bit via the internet. Shows how interesting life in Turkey is, that you don’t need a TV. 😉

  7. Julia, can I ask you a sensible question ? My wife and I have only been over once and are both coming over again in May. Is it worth hiring a car to cover the whole area ?some people think I am mad, but I want to see a large area !! What do you think on driving a hire car around Fethiye, Hironisu and Oludeniz ????

  8. @ Collin Hart: If you hire a car, you can see much more of the area than just those places. Those are easily accessible by bus and dolmuş but if you hire a car, there’s LOADS you can see. 🙂 We’re making some changes to the blog soon and will have a section on day trips from Fethiye. Watch this space… 🙂

    • Thank you Julia, we are staying for 9 days in May, then 3 weeks in August, but we plan on covering the whole area. This year was our first trip, but wow, love the people, area, food and drink. So hiring a car will be a lot of fun. Driving cannot be worse than Sorrento, Italy !!!

  9. We’re lucky enough to spend 8-10 weeks a year in Calis (hubby still needs to work unfortunately – but then someone has to pay the bills!!). We also don’t have a tv in our apartment, and only watch the occasional dvd if the weather is bad or we just fancy a night in. It’s so nice to have decent weather, where you can walk, get the dolmus and explore the area, or just sit outside and have a beer! Oh, I so wish I was there right now, though the weather here in South Wales today is pretty good – cold, but lovely blue skies and sunny!!! It could be worse ……

  10. @ julesbob0303: Bills are always there to spoil the fun aren’t they?! 😉 Our TV had become a dusty inconvenience and a friend needed one so we were quite happy to offload it onto her. British autumnal weather can be great and we miss the autumn colours sometimes…but we’re never going to complain about having a beer on Fethiye harbour!! 🙂

  11. @ Collin Hart: I love driving here. Once you’re out of the town centres and along the mountain roads, it’s bliss. Saw some drivers in Italy in spring and it’s definitely no better/worse than Turkey so you’ll be fine. you’ve got bags of time, too, to see quite a lot when you come. 🙂

  12. what a perfect day! i wish i could get my hands on those mushrooms!

  13. Making us jealous again! I could really enjoy a market Gozleme right now! Yum. I look at the Shaka webcam everyday for my Fethiye fix. I always look for you two!! Really missing Fethiye now.


  14. @ Jaz: Whereabouts are you in the US? Jamie Oliver (British TV chef) picked some from the forests in the northern US. Çintar (saffron milk cap or red pine mushroom) apparently grow under pine trees. We have a few recipes on the blog for them. 🙂

    @ Connie: Can’t beat gözleme – oh, and we make a point of choosing a table out of sight of the webcam!! 😉 Sorry you’re missing Fethiye. 🙁

  15. . . after tucking into those lovely cintar, don’t get alarmed by the colour of your pee – and the affect only lasts a couple of days 🙂

  16. Our cintar haven’t appeared yet – too dry. Can’t wait for them to come into season.

  17. @ Alan: Hmm, now we eat çintar quite a lot when they’re out and we’ve never had odd-coloured pee – or maybe we don’t inspect carefully. 😉

    @ BacktoBodrum: Wow, that’s strange. we’ve had no rain to speak of here, either. The çintar are all over Fethiye market today. Hope you get some soon. 🙂

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