Eating In Eskişehir Again – This Time It’s Kokoreç

We did do other things while we were in Eskişehir. Well, we’ve told you about our little stroll around Odunpazarı and we strolled to other places too. We’ll tell you about them all in good time, but it’s weekend, it’s Turkish Food Focus at weekends…so we’re going to tell you about yet another meal we ate while we were there.

Çiğ börek was a must try, we were told, and we did try it. Not before eating köfte and piyaz in Odunpazarı, though. And then, one night while we were walking back to the hotel after sampling some of Eskişehir’s bars, we saw one of our favourite post-night-out sights.

Turkish Food - Kokoreç or Grilled Intestines

Kokoreç – a welcome sight after a night out

Oh yes, kokoreç being spit roasted over coals. Were we hungry? Well who cares after an evening out? We couldn’t walk past this and not try it. We went inside; it was a tiny little place and the guy didn’t even need to leave his station behind the counter to take our order. Two kokoreç half breads.

“Acılı, sade?”

Oh, this is just getting better and better. Do we want plain or spicy. Of course we want spicy! And here’s the thing. We’ve mentioned this in the past, but getting your hands on spicy takeaway food as a foreigner in Turkey can prove difficult, especially in tourist areas like Fethiye. It’s like there’s this assumption/fear that you will find the dish too spicy and not enjoy it. Throw those chillies at us. We love them!

Turkish Pickled Chillies

Pickled chillies – feisty

Well, this is Eskişehir. There’s no natural instinct to protect the sensitive tastebuds of the unsuspecting foreign tourist just yet. We had pickled chillies on our table just for good measure – in case the ‘acılı kokoreç’ we were waiting for wasn’t really all that ‘acılı.’ And then the kokoreç half bread was delivered to our table. Woooo, no concern about our gastronomic welfare from this guy. We asked for acılı and that was exactly what we got!

Juicy kokoreç – not too dry – finely chopped with super hot chilli flakes and fresh tomato, placed between a toasted half bread. Fortunately, we had a cooling ayran to go with our little on-the-way-home supper and it was much appreciated. The bowl of pickled chillies was used – but, whereas we usually polish off the whole lot, just a couple each sufficed.

Kokoreç Half Bread, Eskişehir

You can’t beat a good kokoreç half bread

This is possibly the best kokoreç half bread we’ve eaten. Certainly on a par with the one we had a Çiftlik market back in spring. When we woke up the morning after (still with the spicy kokoreç flavours lingering in our mouths) I realised we didn’t know the name of the place where we’d eaten. We weren’t even sure which route we’d taken back to the hotel. How can we write about somewhere on the blog but then say, “Oh, we don’t know where it is.”

So first job for that morning was to go on a little hunt around the side streets that fan out along the Porşuk River in the hope of stumbling across last night’s eatery. We walked past it the first time – things look different in daylight. But then it’s not surprising we walked past it. This kokoreç was eaten in Karadeniz Balık Evi (Karadeniz Fish Restaurant). What’s that all about? Well, we can’t speak for the fish, but we’ve certainly got no complaints about the kokoreç!

Karadeniz Balık Evi is on Şaır Fuzuli Caddesi, between Porşuk River and Mustafa Kemal Atatürk Caddesi. View it centred on our map.

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  1. Yummie, amazing pics and good choice. I became hungry by the way 🙂

  2. This really is so interesting now! We always complain that there isn’t a successful kokoreççi in Eskişehir. We haven’t tried the place you mentioned in this post. Shame on us! If you find it that good, we must definitely try it asap! Thank you guys!

  3. @ tedeinturkey: Yes, this kokoreç was very yummy! Sorry to make you hungry. 🙂

    @ Zerrin: I remember you saying there wasn’t good kokoreç in Eskişehir. Hopefully, you will like this one – it seems to be very much a matter of personal taste. 🙂

  4. The Kokoreç looks absolutely marvelous. 🙂 I haven’t had it since I was in Russia. 🙂

  5. @ Rambling Tart: Wow, didn’t even know you could get kokoreç in Russia. Good to know for future reference. 😉 This one was really good – think it was the chillies that did it. 🙂

  6. It’s always fun to stumble upon good food like this! 🙂

  7. @ Joy: Especially after a night out when you’re on your way home and feeling a bit peckish. 🙂

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