Return To Izmir – There’s Never Enough Time

The following blog post was written two days ago immediately after our return from Izmir. On the same day, Berkan Elvan – a 15 year old who was struck on the head by a police tear gas cannister while out to buy bread during the Istanbul protests last June – passed away. His funeral was […]

Why Was I The Only Person Inside Izmir Agora?

Sat at the foot of Kadifekale, sandwiched between the hillside and the streets of Kemeraltı is the ancient Izmir agora. When we wrote about the Lycian and Roman ruins of Xanthos, we said that around many of Turkey’s archaeological sites, modern daily life continues. Nowhere is this more evident than at Izmir agora. Here we are, in […]

Turkish Food Focus: Falling In Love With The Döner Kebab – Again & Again…

We know there’s so much more to Turkish cuisine than the döner kebab (there’s more than enough evidence of that throughout this blog). And we know there are lots of different street foods available throughout the country to tantalise our taste buds. Tantuni kebab springs to mind, nohutlu pilav, ıslak hamburger, we could go on… […]

A Piece Of Historic Izmir: Kızlarağası Hanı

This time last week, we were telling you about how we got ourselves happily lost in the warren of streets that is Izmir’s Kemeraltı. Many of the streets are covered with mesh and vines to keep them shaded, so it’s even more difficult to get your bearings because, at times, you can’t see any of […]

Izmir: Losing Oneself In The Maze Of Kemeraltı

We’ve made this comparison before, but for us, when it comes to size and personality, Izmir is to Istanbul what Manchester is to London in the UK. Izmir is completely different to Istanbul but it’s impossible not to make such a comparison. Both cities link their opposite shores by ferries (and Izmir uses the iconic […]

Turkish Food Focus: The Gevrekçi

When it came to feeding ourselves on a budget, Izmir was a happy and unexpected find. We were on a mission to explore as much of the city as possible, so food stops were fuel stops to keep us going until we needed to replenish dwindling energy levels again. Of course, the beauty of Turkey […]

Nohutlu Pilav – Enjoying Turkish Street Food With A View Of Izmir

There’s something special about stumbling across street food in Turkey when you’re wandering the streets and exploring somewhere new. If you’re someone who loves trying different foods, the great thing about Turkish street food is you can be pretty confident you’re going to really enjoy it. And, more often than not, you’re only going to […]

Sipping Turkish Coffee The Izmir Way – They Do Things Differently Here

We’ll go into more detail about the Kemeraltı area of Izmir in a later post, but if you’ve ever been to Istanbul, it’s easy to compare the streets around Kemeraltı to a more compact version of the surrounding alleyways of Kapalı Çarşısı (the Grand Bazaar). Perfect for aimless wanderings. Not so perfect when you’re on a […]

Testing Out Our First Ever Famous Çeşme Kumrusu

“Don’t come back from Izmir without trying Çeşme Kumrusu!” This was just one of the many pieces of advice given to us by Turkish friends before we set off for our trip to Izmir in September. But it was also the piece of advice; the common thread that linked all the other suggestions offered. Woe […]

Izmir Clock Tower – The Symbol Of A City

In Izmir, there is one historic attraction that most people know about. We almost felt duty-bound to go and see it to take photos of it. Izmir Saat Kulesi (Izmir Clock Tower) is the symbol of the city and arguably its most famous sight. We felt we couldn’t ignore it, and so, we went off […]