Why Was I The Only Person Inside Izmir Agora?

Sat at the foot of Kadifekale, sandwiched between the hillside and the streets of Kemeraltı is the ancient Izmir agora. When we wrote about the Lycian and Roman ruins of Xanthos, we said that around many of Turkey's archaeological sites, modern daily life continues. Nowhere is this more evident … [Read more...]

Turkish Food Focus: Falling In Love With The Döner Kebab – Again & Again…

We know there's so much more to Turkish cuisine than the döner kebab (there's more than enough evidence of that throughout this blog). And we know there are lots of different street foods available throughout the country to tantalise our taste buds. Tantuni kebab springs to mind, nohutlu pilav, … [Read more...]

A Piece Of Historic Izmir: Kızlarağası Hanı

This time last week, we were telling you about how we got ourselves happily lost in the warren of streets that is Izmir's Kemeraltı. Many of the streets are covered with mesh and vines to keep them shaded, so it's even more difficult to get your bearings because, at times, you can't see any of the … [Read more...]

Izmir: Losing Oneself In The Maze Of Kemeraltı

We've made this comparison before, but for us, when it comes to size and personality, Izmir is to Istanbul what Manchester is to London in the UK. Izmir is completely different to Istanbul but it's impossible not to make such a comparison. Both cities link their opposite shores by ferries (and … [Read more...]

Izmir: The Side Streets Of Alsancak – Sokakta Hayat Var

In the Izmir seaside neighbourhood of Alsancak, there's a famous, pedestrianised shopping street called Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi. Filled with high street stores, restaurants and patisseries it's Izmir's answer to Istanbul's Istiklal Caddesi, though it's much less crowded and the high-rise buildings … [Read more...]

Izmir Sevgi Yolu – A City’s Walk Of Fame

Each city has its own personality, with qualities that either attract or repel the visitor, and if you've read our previous posts on Izmir, you'll know we were very much attracted to the Aegean city. It's a confident city without being cocky or in your face. It's surrounded by mass tourism but … [Read more...]

Exploring Izmir: The Hike To Kadifekale

We'd been in Izmir for four days and still hadn't made it to one of the sights on our list of Izmir Must-Sees - Kadifekale (the Velvet Castle). Racing around, bagging sights is never really top of our agenda when we go somewhere new - but Kadifekale sits on top of a hill (of the same name), … [Read more...]

When The Sun Goes Down – Five Izmir Photos

Memories from our time in Izmir: there are a lot of them. Food more than played it's part by way of the söğüş, Çeşme kumrusu and the stuffed mussels. In between meals, we also managed a bit of sightseeing. Of course, we couldn't go to Izmir without taking many photographs of the famous Izmir Saat … [Read more...]

Midye Dolma: Stuffing Our Faces With An Izmir Favourite

We know that Turkey is famous for its street food and Izmir is a great city to be in if you're looking to sample lots of street food treats. When we first visited, we were in the city for six short days and were on a mission to eat, eat, eat. Purely because so many friends had enthused about all … [Read more...]

Kıbrıs Şehitler Caddesi – Izmir’s Most Famous Street?

Istanbul's Beyoğlu area has the famous Istiklal Caddesi - a pedestrianised stretch of shops and eateries and swarms of people weaving their way to their intended destination with varying degrees of success. It's a feature of the city, just as Alsancak's Kıbrıs Şehitler Caddesi is for Izmir - … [Read more...]