Sat at the foot of Kadifekale, sandwiched between the hillside and the streets of Kemeraltı is the ancient Izmir agora. When we wrote about the Lycian and Roman ruins of Xanthos, we said that around many of Turkey’s archaeological sites, modern daily life continues. Nowhere is this more evident than at Izmir agora. Izmir’s Ancient …

In our last post, we took you on a walk from Çalış to Çiftlik. If you remember, we were going to explore Çiftlik market. Well, for this week’s Turkish Food Focus, we’re concentrating on said market, real name, Çiftlik Perşembe Pazarı (Çiftlik Thursday Market). We had no idea what to expect when we arrived but …

Walking to Çiftlik from Çalış is really easy because you can’t get lost, it’s flat (bonus!) and it’s a good bit of painless exercise after you’ve had cabin fever from rain-gazing through the window. Similar to last year, it’s been a mild winter but it’s been a wet winter. Last week, there was a lull …

This time last week, we were telling you about how we got ourselves happily lost in the warren of streets that is Izmir’s Kemeraltı. Many of the streets are covered with mesh and vines to keep them shaded, so it’s even more difficult to get your bearings because, at times, you can’t see any of …

Tavuklu nohutlu pilav – There’s something special about stumbling across street food in Turkey when you’re wandering the streets and exploring somewhere new. If you’re someone who loves trying different foods, the great thing about Turkish street food is you can be pretty confident you’re going to really enjoy it. And, more often than not, …

We just love Kemeraltı Market in the Konak area of Izmir! We’ve made this comparison before, but for us, when it comes to size and personality, Izmir is to Istanbul what Manchester is to London in the UK. Izmir is completely different to Istanbul. But it’s impossible not to make such a comparison. Both cities …

Beans – both dried and fresh – are a much-used ingredient in Turkish cuisine and the dishes they produce, like this white bean dip, are right up there amongst our favourites. When it comes to white beans (cannellini beans) Antalya style piyaz is a real regular in our house. And, of course, kuru fasulye, a …

In the Izmir seaside neighbourhood of Alsancak, there’s a famous, pedestrianised shopping street called Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi. Filled with high street stores, restaurants and patisseries it’s Izmir’s answer to Istanbul’s Istiklal Caddesi, though it’s much less crowded and the high-rise buildings are much less historic. So if shopping isn’t your thing (we’re most definitely not …

Most people who visit Turkey fall in love with Turkish bread right from that very first moment when it passes their lips. When fresh, the standard Turkish loaf should be crisp on the outside and soft and light in the centre. Upon sitting down to a meal, the diner insists to themselves, “Only a couple …

Each city has its own personality, with qualities that either attract or repel the visitor, and if you’ve read our previous posts on Izmir, you’ll know we were very much attracted to the Aegean city. It’s a confident city without being cocky or in your face. It’s surrounded by mass tourism but remains unaffected by …