In Search Of Calm In Gülhane Park, Istanbul

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To witness the tulips. That was the reason for our dash to Istanbul’s Gülhane Park – one of the city’s most famous parks – on our most recent visit to this sprawling megacity.

We were primarily in Istanbul for one of Turkey’s top running events; the Istanbul Half Marathon.

But any running event is also always a perfect excuse for a short break, too.

As the half marathon event falls on the final Sunday in April, that means it also coincides with the latter days of one of the country’s top festivals, too – the Istanbul Tulip Festival.

And we know Gülhane Park is one of the best places to view the tulips during the festival. And we’d had a cool start to spring.

Would we be lucky enough to catch the tulips in bloom in one of the city’s largest parks?

Gülhane Park, Istanbul

Set on a hillside on the historical peninsula of Istanbul, Gülhane Park has been a public park since 1912.

The park is the outer gardens of Topkapı Palace and, these days, offers welcome respite from the crowds around Sultanahmet Square and beyond.

Skirting around the outer walls of Alay Köşkü, tourists who have braved the queues to witness the majesty of Hagia Sophia, the Blue Mosque and the wonder of the Basilica Cistern can make the short walk downhill.

Just follow the tram line.

An Escape

From there, it’s a quick dart off the busy side street, through the archway in the historic walls and into the tranquility of Gülhane Park.

But it’s not just a haven for tourists looking to enjoy some open space. Gülhane Park is also popular with local people enjoying a Sunday afternoon stroll.

With its huge plane trees, rose gardens and ornamental features, it’s the perfect place to wander, explore or just to sit for a while.

Plane trees were prevalent during the Ottoman Empire because they manifested the strength and power of the empire.

As Gülhane Park was formerly part of the outer gardens of Topkapı Palace, it no doubt explains the commanding presence of these trees.

Our last visit to Istanbul – and those of previous years – have all been in late autumn. Yes, another running event dictating this decision – the Istanbul Marathon which takes place each November.

No tulips in Gülhane Park in November, of course. But that doesn’t make it any less beautiful. This is a park for all seasons!

Who doesn’t love the colour and the crunch of autumn leaves underfoot on a crisp autumnal day?

Ceviz Ağacı – Walnut Tree

We’re far from being tree experts so have never identified all of the different types of trees in the park.

Turkish musician, Cem Karaca – a prominent member of the Anatolian rock scene – composed the song, Ceviz Ağacı (Walnut Tree):

Ben bir ceviz ağacıyım Gülhane Parkında – I am a walnut tree in Gülhane Park

Ne sen bunun farkındasın ne de polis farkında – Neither you nor the police are aware

The song is based on the the famous poem of the same name, written by Nazim Hikmet.

Hikmet was attempting to meet his lover in Gülhane Park at a time when the police were searching for him (he was often arrested and imprisoned for his political beliefs whilst Cem Karaca also spent a period in exile in Germany).

On seeing so many police in the park, he hid in a walnut tree.

He could see his lover waiting for him – and he could see the police searching for him. Neither the police nor his lover knew he was there.

So, look out for those walnut trees when you do visit the park.

The Gülhane Edict

Gülhane Park also holds another significant place in history as this was the location for the proclamation of the Gülhane Edict (the Noble Edict of the Rose Chamber) by Ottoman Sultan, Abdülmecid I in 1839.

This marked the reorganisation of the Ottoman Empire with various laws being introduced that, amongst other rights, guaranteed life and property rights regardless of religion or ethnic group.

By this time, the power and influence of the Ottoman Empire had significantly declined so the Edict was designed to modernise the empire, adopting more European ideas of the time.

Ancient History In Gülhane Park – Column of The Goths

As well as the ever-changing seasonal scenery of Gülhane Park, strolling the tree-lined pedestrian-only lanes between the lush green lawns and ornamental flower beds rewards you with a bit of ancient history, too.

For such a prominent landmark, you really wouldn’t know the Column of the Goths was there just by strolling the main lane through the park.

It was only rediscovered once Gülhane Park opened to the general public in the early 20th Century.

You need to veer off, uphill towards the park’s northeastern edge.

In April, this is a climb along a pathway flanked by vibrantly coloured tulips and sunshine yellow daffodils.

Be sure to glimpse behind you often, too.

As you climb higher, there are fabulous vistas through the swaying trees; the Golden Horn flowing whilst the steep hillside rises on the opposite shore.

This is the maze of streets of Beyoğlu, crowned by one of the standout sights of Istanbul – Galata Tower.

As for the Column of the Goths, there is debate as to its era of construction. 3rd or 4th Century AD is the general consensus.

Away from the debate, it’s generally agreed it was constructed to honour a Roman defeat of the Goths.

An 18.5 metres high freestanding marble column, it’s a wonder we’d never noticed this historic structure before our most recent Istanbul visit.

Another reason why we don’t subscribe to the ‘been there, done that’ way of travel. A return visit always reveals something new.

Gülhane Park Cistern

If you haven’t had your fill of ancient cisterns after visiting Yerebatan and the Cistern of Theodosius, make sure you head into the Gülhane Park Cistern; fully restored by Istanbul Archaeology Museums and opened to the public in 2023.

If you know Gülhane Park from years gone by, you might recognise the building as it previously housed an aquarium. Happily, we can now witness this beautiful building with its original features restored.

Now, throughout this article, we have said Gülhane Park is an oasis of calm.

It is!

It’s just that if you’re there as those tulip bulbs have done their thing and burst into bloom, well, you’re not going to be the only person in Istanbul who wants to enjoy being a part of this free festival.

The occasional burst of a whistle from good-natured security staff cut through the chatter around the park as we wandered around.

It was their (constant) job to make sure groups didn’t clamber into the tulip beds to have their photo taken amongst the blooms. We didn’t envy those security staff!

So a Gülhane Park with more people than we’ve witnessed previously.

But we got the Gülhane Park Cistern all to ourselves for a few minutes.

As with Yerebatan (the Basilica Cistern), this cistern is now being used to exhibit art works.

At the time of our visit, we were treated to the creations of Turkish sculptor, Büşra Kölmük and her current exhibition, Polen.

This is part of a bid by IBB (the Istanbul Municipality) to bring life to ancient buildings.

It’s thought the cistern itself dates back to the period of Emperor Hadrian 117-138 AD.

There’s also a small sultan’s fountain, known as the Gülhane Park Fountain, just next to the cistern. And this bears the signature of Sultan V. Mehmet Raşad from 1911.

Ancient history, 20th century Ottoman history and 21st Century modern Turkish art all on display in one small space.

Water Feature

Art features prevail in Istanbul at the moment and we loved the water feature in Gülhane Park.

A waterfall of patterns words that welcome you to Gülhane Park.

And it definitely took me more than one attempt to capture these tumbling words on camera before they disappeared!

Amongst the flowers, trees and pathways, benches around this waterfall allow the visitor to enjoy the (creative) sight and sounds of tumbling water.

We have a real affection for Istanbul. But, as with any city, sometimes the senses need to calm and regroup away from the noise and the masses.

Green spaces like one of the most beautiful parks in the city, Gülhane Park, are precious areas where that can happen.

Gülhane Park – FAQs

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