Symi Island, Greece – A Greek Island Not To Miss

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There are countless Greek islands out there that are picture postcard pretty. But when it comes to the Greek island of Symi – well, it’s got to be right up there near the top of that list!

Back in 2003, we were planning a summer holiday to the small island of Symi but postponed it because we came to to Fethiye for a prolonged stay.

As you know, if you’re a regular reader of this blog, our prolonged stay in Fethiye continues to this day.

Symi had been on the backburner ever since.

Until now!

Barry’s 50th gave us the perfect excuse – and impetus – to finally visit the island for a short break.

Getting To Symi Island

Symi sits in the Dodecanese Greek islands group, just a short hop from its neighbouring island, Rhodes.

Like most visitors, we arrived on Symi by high speed ferry from the harbour just outside the mediaeval walls of Rhodes Old Town (Symi island doesn’t have its own airport).

Unlike many visitors (who usually fly to Rhodes Airport), we had also travelled on the Fethiye Rhodes ferry to get to our Symi transport.

It had been a particularly choppy crossing so we arrived in Rhodes over an hour behind schedule.

Not All Plain Sailing

Fortunately, there are numerous daily crossings in summer between Rhodes and Symi. Barry had seen fit to book a late afternoon high speed ferry – just in case.

He was wise to do so!

Can’t say I was relishing the fact of another choppy crossing but the thought of arriving at the main port of pretty Symi harbour tempered the nerves a tad.

As the ferry pulled into the bay in Rhodes, our tickets were checked.

Within minutes, the passengers from Symi had disembarked – with help and strong encouragement from the ferry crew – and we were ushered on.

Only to see the top deck outside seating roped off. Another choppy crossing was definitely in store.

Within minutes, we were on our way and bouncing over the waves; crashing back into the water; the sea swilling over the windows of the ferry.

It’s a fast turnaround!

A Short Hop

And, mercifully (despite the waves on that day), it’s a fast crossing.

Just over an hour later, the Turkish coasts of the Bozburun Peninsula and Datça within touching distance, the waves eventually became ripples as the ferry slowed and we entered the beautiful horseshoe-shaped bay ro dock at Symi port.

First Sight Of Symi

A happy mingling of soft pastel shades and vivid rich colours climb and cling to the rocky hillsides that shape the harbour.

These are the neoclassical two-storey buildings that characterise this Greek island.

These and the numerous colourful Greek Orthodox churches.

Exploring The Greek Island Of Symi

Ours was a short stay on Symi. Three nights.

But because it’s such a tiny island, it’s easy to pack a lot in. Even in the July heat.

So, what did we get up to while we were there?

Treading The Famous Kali Strata

When you approach Symi harbour and see all the colourful buildings along the shoreline and rising up the surrounding hillsides, you are looking at the neighbourhoods of Gialos and Chorio.

Gialos is the lower neighbourhood around sea level where you will find most of the shops, bars and tavernas.

Chorio is the largely residential neighbourhood on the hill – and the location of our studio accommodation.

And the Kali Strata – ‘Wide Path’ – is your famous pathway between the two.

Depending on which source you read, the Kali Strata has 400 or 500 steps – we didn’t count them.

A path with wide access that was once used by merchants and donkeys to carry their wares and trade their goods.

Old ruined mansions – this was where the wealthy of Symi resided – remind us of what was, whilst others have been meticulously restored and bring us right into the 21st Century.

These are now private dwellings, holiday studios, offices and restaurants.

Back in the day, in the mid-to-late 1800s, Symi was amassing wealth as a centre for sponge diving and its population exceeded that of Rhodes.

The Kali Strata is where that is most evident.

And it’s also the place where you are going to want to take your time, spot the views, take in the history, admire the newly restored architecture – and also take countless photos of all the pretty steps and alleyways.

Who wants to rush up all of those steps, anyway?

Stop to catch your breath. No time for rushing on Symi.

Relax!

Strolling Pretty Symi Harbour

Along the harbour and through the little backstreets immediately away from the sea – this is where Symi is as crowded as it gets.

And that’s not very crowded, at all.

It’s at its most crowded in the daytimes when day trip boats from Rhodes arrive.

A gentle buzz where the bars and restaurants and souvenir shops benefit from the daily visitors.

We strolled along the harbour in the mornings, mentally picking out places to frequent later on.

Enjoying the changing views for the island as you round each bend.

World War 2 History

It was July and hot so we only walked around 4 kilometres, passing the clock tower, the Memorial of the Fallen Soldier and the building (now a taverna) where the surrender of the Dodecanese to the Allies by the Nazis was signed on 8th May 1945.

In cooler weather, it’s possible to follow the quiet road along the sea, past small beaches and on to Nimborio – a small neighbourhood with larger beach area and taverna.

The Flag Of Symi

Back towards the main part of the harbour of Gialos – Symi town – flags proudly remind those on the island where they are.

We’re not just in Greece.

We’re on the Greek island of Symi and the flag of Symi, featuring the island’s patron saint and protector, Archangel Michael, billows in the breezes at various locations.

Falling In Love

Some of those flags fly at Kalderimi Bridge – the Bridge of Love – which connects the two parts of Symi harbour.

Whether that means a lovers’ bridge or whether it’s the place where you stand and realise you’ve fallen for Symi – you can take your pick.

We loved the views from there, though, and browsing the souvenir shops along the harbour and in the pretty square.

And Famous Divers

You’ll also come across this prominent statue of Stathis Hatzis on Symi harbour.

The inscription describes him as a ‘naked diver’ which, these days, we know as free diving.

The most famous sponge diver of his day, in July 1913, he was asked to locate an anchor that had been lost by an Italian battalion at the bottom of the sea.

He plunged 88 metres and located the anchor, holding his breath for 3 minutes and 58 seconds, in the process.

An accomplishment unheard of at the time and he’s been honoured with this statue for his troubles.

Taxi Boats & Tour Boats

If you want to hit the beach or do a boat trip, this is where you’ll come to either hop on your day trip boat or take one of the taxi boats to the bays around the island.

The taxi boats are the best way – or the only way, in some cases – to get to the beaches, some of which have more facilities than others.

If you’re looking to escape the main town for the day to chill, taxi boats set off at regular intervals to:

• Nimborio
• St. Nikolas
• Nanou
• St. George – no facilities
• St. Marina

Over To Pedi Beach

An injury meant Barry was forbidden by the doctor from swimming.

So, whilst we were in Symi, we must have been amongst the only people there who didn’t cool off in those lovely Aegean waters.

But we didn’t want to miss out on a beachy afternoon so we headed up and over the hill to Pedi Beach.

Here, we refer you back to the Kali Strata.

In cooler weather, it would be a lovely walk to climb out of Ano Symi via the Kali Strata, through Chorio and back down the other side of the hill to Pedi.

Symi Public Bus

Fear ye not, however, in warmer weather. Symi has a great little hourly public bus.

This bus runs from the harbour and up the hill to its first stop – the Symi windmills; location of tourist accommodation and fabulous views.

Second stop (the stop we used for our hotel) is Chorio and easy access to the top end of the Kali Strata.

And then it’s through the village and down the other side of the hill to Pedi.

En route, you can see new builds starting to reoccupy the hillside.

An island that took a pounding in WWII, Symi is gradually repopulating.

Any new builds must match the Venetian-style buildings that make Symi so pretty.

One of the rare occasions that we’ve looked through a bus window and not felt sad at the sight of construction.

Chilled Out Pedi

And we both really liked Pedi – just a really relaxed, chilled vibe.

The bay is more of a gulf with crystal clear, calm waters. A small smattering of villas and holiday accommodation.

A cafe, a couple of beachside tavernas with sunbeds.

And that’s it.

And exhale…

Over To Panormitis Monastery

We always think of Greek monasteries as being built in the most impossible places; perched high in the mountains, balancing precariously on craggy outlets.

But this is the Monastery of Archangel Michael, Panormitis.

And although it was a mountainous bus journey to reach it, this monastery curves around a forested bay; yachts anchored, boat tours making their regular stop here so passengers can visit.

Although there are lots of curious visitors wandering around the small central courtyard and the devotional area, this is also clearly a place of pilgrimage for many.

A devotional statue of Archangel Michael stands behind glass in the sacred area. People were queuing to place their hand on his hand or to kneel before it.

The courtyard area is pleasant and there’s an area for lighting a candle, if you want to.

There’s a small museum but the busiest places were the tiny shop selling religious icons and the small cafe outside.

For us, 30 minutes was enough time to visit the monastery.

We wanted to visit as this is the place dedicated to the patron saint of Symi.

But the bus journey over the hills was equally memorable!

Dipping Our Toes Into The Symi Food Scene

When you’ve only got three nights, you’re obviously not going to become an expert on the local food scene of the island.

A few weeks before we were due to go to Symi, we joined a Facebook group to see where and what people were recommending.

Foodie Variety

We loved what we saw when we got there.

For a small island, that could no doubt get away with restaurant after restaurant churning out fast food ‘tourist fare,’ (and, yeah, there is a bit of that) it packs a punch when it comes to quality tavernas and restaurants with chefs who obviously care about what they’re creating in the kitchen.

Unsurprisingly, seafood restaurants abound.

But there are also Greek tavernas serving up homemade, traditional Greek dishes; Greek restaurants serving up those traditional dishes but with a modern twist.

And there’s also a handful of places with a more international menu.

Fine Dining Michelin-Style

Big mention for the newly opened (summer 2024) Agora on the Kali Strata – no, we didn’t get there.

If fine dining is your thing, this place looks like a must.

Thessaloniki-born chef, Chris Sidiropoıulos, has worked in 1 and 2 Michelin-starred restaurants around the world and competed in the Roux Scholarship, ranking him the UK’s top 6 chefs.

He’s now creating and serving up tasting menus for both Dinner and Aperitivo.

And if you’re on a budget or want a snack to eat on the go, there’s also the traditional Greek bakeries.

This little bakery was opposite our hotel and their warm, triangular spanakopita was a delight!

The famous Symi shrimps did not disappoint! They’re served in many places and we had them twice!

Great to share as a lunchtime snack with a cold beer.

These shrimps are so small that the whole thing is eaten because the shells are soft.

A Pork Fix

And, because we live in Fethiye and there are oodles of seafood restaurants here – and because we don’t eat pork, here – wherever we go to in Greece, we always have to indulge in some pork dishes.

Gyros is a budget fast food essential, of course.

But on Barry’s birthday, we wanted a restaurant that was gonna serve us up a big meaty pork chop – a real Greek speciality as far as we’re concerned.

Kali Strata Restaurant

People had mentioned a relatively new restaurant at the top of the Kali Strata where the chefs were doing some of that Greek cuisine with a modern twist.

More by pure luck than any sort of good management, when we arrived at our hotel on the first day, there was the restaurant, right next door to us.

We ordered a green salad and some kolokithokeftedes (fried courgette and feta balls) to share.

Amazing view out to sea, some Greek wine, plates to share.

Would the pork chop live up to expectations? and live up to previous pork chops we’ve had?

A hands down yes!

The best so far, in fact.

Most visitors to Symi will gush over the seafood.

And maybe we will, too, if we ever go back.

For now, though, we’re gushing over those Symi pork chops!

Symi Roundup – Useful Info

• There is no airport on Symi island. Most people people arrive by ferry from nearby Rhodes or Kos.
• We arrived by ferry from Rhodes and there are various available crossings throughout the day in season.
• In high season, it’s wise to pre-book your ferry. There are various apps to do this which will give you the different ferry companies and departure times.
• We opted to book the high speed Sebeco ferry. There’s a ticket office for them at the port in Rhodes and at the port on Symi, too.
• Accommodation on Symi tends to be studios and apartments with a handful of small hotels. You can check out some ideas on Booking.com.

• Whilst weather conditions meant we didn’t get to experience the famous view of the harbour as we arrived at Symi, our crossing back to Rhodes was much more calm and we could sit outside, on the top deck.
• A fitting farewell to the Greek island of Symi as we watched it disappear into the distance.
• And if you love the horseshoe-shaped bay of Symi with its colourful dwellings climbing up the hillside, check out its (even more low key) little sister Dodecanese island of Kastellorizo!

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