A Stroll To Afkule Monastery
All last week, the weather in Fethiye was fantastic - perfect for trekking. Time to return to the dramatic scenery of Afkule.
We caught the dolmuş to Kayaköy so we could do the short walk to the dramatic setting of Af Kule Monastery.
In the winter months, the dolmuş goes through Kayaköy, towards Gemiler but it terminates in the small hamlet of Kınalı.
We got off here and strolled along the pleasant and rarely used country road towards Gemiler and the Afkule Monastery turn off.
At this time of year around Kayaköy, wild flowers peep through between rocks and rubble along the roadside and in the forest, so this meant I was soon quite a way behind my walking companions.
Our botanical knowledge is practically non-existent but I love to take photos of the flowers - one day, we might be able to identify them.
About 1 km along the Gemiler road, you'll see a junction and signposts pointing towards Af Kule Monastery and Gemiler.
You may be able to make out '2 km' scratched into the Af Kule sign. It's more like 3 km.
Still a short stroll, but you will be truly amazed by your reward as the forest path gives no clues as to what is waiting for you at the end.
When you reach a clearing (maybe 1 km up the wide forest track) you need to bear right and you begin to make a short ascent along a rubble donkey track.
There are red and yellow striped paint marks guiding the way.
Most of this stretch is shaded by pine trees but keep your eyes peeled as you do get the occasional vista of Babadağ (Father Mountain) behind in the distance.
Eventually, you will reach the top of the track and, although you're aware of a massive drop below you, your view is obscured by ancient trees growing from the mountainside.
A feeling of standing on the edge of the world - at this point, the butterflies in my tummy begin to flutter in rapid fashion.
Afkule Monastery is right below you, out of sight for the moment.
Zigzag your way down the very steep footpath - there are steps in places - and after a couple of minutes, a section of Afkule and its amazing setting reveals itself.
The steep descent from the top of the hill to the grassy clearing from where you can admire Afkule is around 150 metres.
Once you get there, take out your camera, picnic, book and take in the drama of your surroundings.
It's a humbling setting.
I'll be honest here and admit that my first ever visit to Afkule Monastery revealed my previously unknown fear of sheer drops and, for a while, I didn't return, leaving Barry to take friends there alone.
A few visits later and I now find the place a beautiful and tranquil place to be.
I was brave enough to walk to the edge to take this photo but as for the hermitage, carved into the rock face behind me...
Those brave enough can climb up into the Afkule hermitage and take in the views from the top window.
It's possible to see the Greek island of Rhodes on a very clear day.
It's possible to climb these rugged steps and enter the hermitage.
I was happy to take a photo of the steps - but then handed the camera to Barry (this is a first!) so he could climb up and take a couple of photos through the top window.
And he didn't do a bad job - once he'd shouted down to me that everything just looked black and I suggested removing the lens cap.
The return walk from Af Kule is back the way you came.
We walked back into Kayaköy and managed to fit in a well-deserved, refreshing beer while we waited for the dolmuş back to Fethiye.
Af Kule Monastery, Kayaköy - Useful Info
- From getting off the dolmuş in Kınalı and walking to Af Kule and back up to Kayaköy, the whole walk took 3 hours.
- Although this is a short walk, sturdy footwear and a bottle of water is a must. During the winter months, your nearest refreshment is back in Kayaköy. In summer, there are a couple of places open in nearby Kınalı.
- During winter, the dolmuş between Kayaköy and Fethiye is every hour, on the hour.
- In summer, this changes to every half hour. Some dolmuşes will go all the way down to Gemiler Bay, meaning you can get off at the Af Kule / Gemiler junction to begin your walk to Af Kule. On return, you could even make your way down to Gemiler Beach (about 40 mins walk) and have a refreshing swim before getting the dolmuş back towards Fethiye. There's also a snack bar (open all year) at Gemiler.
- Those looking for a longer trek could skip the dolmuş and walk from Fethiye to Kayaköy before continuing to Af Kule.
- Check out more ideas for strolls, hikes and walks in and around Fethiye now.
THat would be my kind of walk! Fantastic - with lasting memories of Barry and the Lens Cap!!
We loved the coast in Turkey, but I wish we had been able to hike here. I guess we'll be going back. Thanks for posting directions as well, we were hiking a little bit in Turkey and I felt like the signs were always hard to find/follow!
This looks like a wonderful (and adventurous) place to hike. Gorgeous scenery. I'm like you about the flowers -- I love to take pictures of them, but I'm very limited in my knowledge of types and varieties.
oh Julia, how beautiful it looks, as if spring is just round the corner. That blue ...
How long have you lived in Fethiye?
Claudia
@ Rease: Beautiful views at Af Kule. And yes, both tranquil and terrifying. 🙂
Gorgeous views! I can see how that would be both tranquil and terrifying!
@ Inka: Ohhhh, sheer drops. They're not great! I'm pretty convinced these photos don't convey the drop - but maybe that's just me picturing something worse in my head! 🙂
@ Sophie: The more the merrier - although I bet it's beautiful where you are.
@ The Dropout: It's amazing because it's so short, too. And not many people know about it. I've actually climbed up into the hermitage in the past - which confirmed I don't want to do it again. 🙂
I know, we're very lucky to be able to pick and choose. Hope you can, soon!
That walk looks amazing.
What a shame you're scared of drops. It looks like you missed the best view!
I'm also insanely jealous that you can just go for a hike on a Thursday. I hope to be that carefree soon.
Beautiful pictures. And with minus 20 degrees up here, I'm now wondering why I don't move to Turkey.
There is so much beauty in Turkey, from wild flowers to ahhhhh sheer drops!! Got vertigo from your description alone, Julia. Which just goes to show how well you can paint with words.(not to mention the beautiful pictures)
@ DCAllen: As in somewhere to conquer your fears? It succeeded in raising mine! 🙂
@ the world is waiting: Thanks - and sorry for making you miss the Fethiye area more. 🙂
@ Matt: Hope you're asking this because you like the pics? 🙂 It's getting on a bit now my camera. 3 years old! It's a Fujifilm Finepix S5700 and I love it. It wasn't expensive. Did loads of research before I bought it. Saving up for a new camera now and I'm gonna get Fujifilm again. I knew which model I wanted but I've already forgot! (I don't do tech!)
Just out of curiosity Julia, what camera do you have?
Lovely photos guys - you make me miss it all even more than I already do!
Great pics, great advice. I'm terrified of heights, so this is just the place for me.
@ Rob: Thanks. You'll ahve to do the walk when you come out! 🙂
@ Bellini Valli: That was lucky! The cuisine is as fantastic as the country - but we are biased. 🙂
@ Natalie: It's not a nice feeling is it? Yes, a most definite lack of barriers around a lot of places in this area. 🙂
Yes, I took discovered my fear of sheer drops when I came to Turkey. I think it is the Turkish lack of safety barriers that add to it.! Lovely pictures though. Well done1
How fortunate that you commented on my blog. I have only just decided that I have to begin planning a trip to Turkey. I have always been drawn to the cuisine and now to the country.
A lovely post Julia.
@ Lilli: Thanks. If you come in summer, just tell the dolmus driver where you're going and he'll drop you off at the junction.
The views from the top of the hill in Kaya are beautiful aren't they. I always forget it's so close to the coast.
Beautiful photos, and great information for next time I'm there. I've been to Kayakoy but completely missed out on the monastery! We walked up through the village right to the top and the view was magnificent though.