As well as hikes and strolls around Fethiye (where we live), whenever we’re elsewhere, we also like to go for a wander. With its stunning panoramic views, the Çukurbağ Peninsula in Kaş had long been on the list of walks to do.
A late winter birthday weekend in lovely Kaş allowed us to finally scratch that itch. And it didn’t disappoint!
It wasn’t Barry’s first time heading along these (very) undulating roads on foot with splendid Mediterranean views.
Should you choose to take part in one of Turkey’s running events, the Kaş Half Marathon, both the 12k and the 21k races head off around the Çukurbağ Peninsula.
He’s done the 12k twice and raved about the amazing views of the sea, the surrounding hills and the ever-changing angles of the Greek island of Meis…
Running and huffing and puffing up and down hills is not quite the same as a leisurely walk, however, is it?
A leisurely walk where you can take your time, stop, take photos, breathe in the natural beauty.
The world famous long distance path, the Lycian Way, heads through Kaş and surrounding areas. But the Çukurbağ Peninsula is suited to those of us who appreciate a good leg stretch coupled with amazing views.
Around the Kaş Çukurbağ Peninsula
The start and end point for our walk is the old town square in Kaş.
Everyone knows where it is. And by the end of our circular stroll around the Çukurbağ Peninsula, we’ll have cleared 12 kilometres (just short of 7.5 miles).
The same route as the 12k event in the Kaş Half Marathon (see map at the end of the article for the full route).
And with the harbour to your left and the statue of Atatürk to your right, we’re going to set off out of the square, passing the old mosque on the left.
Ancient Ruins
Cross the main road and head straight up the steep hill facing you. Get used to this undulation. There’s a lot of it!
As you clamber up this hill, there’s an interesting bit of ancient history on the left hand side. Interesting because it is thought to be a 1st Century BC temple but it isn’t know which god it was dedicated to.
A few scattered Lycian tombs lie here, too.
And then, of course, continuing along this road, eventually, to your right, you will pass the ancient Antiphellos Theatre.
Depending on the time of year, the giveaway here will be the parked cars and tour minibuses along the road.
It is worth a detour for a few photos, here. The views from the top are great.
Marina Views From The Peninsula
But let’s press on to the rest of the Kaş Çukurbağ Peninsula…
And not too far after the theatre, we get our first glimpses of our almost constant sea view – the Turkish Turquoise Coast.
The linear organisation of the modern Kaş marina is just to the left of this shot. But we love the winter colours in the sea around this first sighting of the turquoise waters.
And the boatyard on the opposite shore with gülets in dry dock and a few small yachts and motorboats moored up around the rocks.
Inceboğaz Views
As the road gently climbs, we’re eventually rewarded with views of one half of the lovely pebble beach, Inceboğaz Plajı.
It was the final day of February when we were walking but it was a pleasant sunny day. And, as you can see, a few people were out there enjoying the water.
Inceboğaz is just one of the many Kaş beaches that fills with sun loungers and gets so crowded in summer. We love being around here in winter when all is calm and peaceful.
Inceboğaz literally translates as ‘thin throat’ and what we have here is a road that cuts through opposite sides of the bay – you can see how the Çukurbağ Peninsula narrows here in the very top photo.
On our right, we can sit and view – and swim in – the calm, sheltered waters of the marina.
On our left, just across the road, we can sit and view the Greek island and enjoy slightly more open waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Take your pick.
No sun loungers on this side of the beach in summer. This is a DIY zone.
And Up Again
From here, the road once more gradually climbs, serving up stunning views of the coastline and peeks through the trees down to Kaş Halk Plajı (public beach) before opening up to the enticing views of Hidayet Koyu.
Again, in the summer months, this is a popular beach club.
But on this sunny winter’s day, it was a perfect reason to stop for a moment and take in the beauty of the coastline and the first wildflowers of early spring.
Left Or Right?
Just as when you’re walking around the Fethiye Peninsula where you can choose a clockwise or anticlockwise direction, after passing Hidayet Koyu, you’ll see a fork in the road ahead.
This is where your loop begins and you can choose to take the left or the right fork.
We choose the right fork and head anticlockwise because we prefer how the the views open out ahead of us.
The peninsula is a prime location for luxury boutique hotels and residences. And at this fork, you’ll see the signs listing these hotels and the direction you can take for the quickest route.
Favourite View Incoming
Once you’re on the loop on the anticlockwise route, your views are now to the right of you. So we’re overlooking the gulf that shelters the Kaş Marina.
And, eventually, as we head onwards, uphill towards the tip of the Kaş Çukurbağ Peninsula, we are rewarded with this fabulous view.
Villas and boutique hotels with private pool and ‘beaches’ for easy access to the calm sea.
We should point out that we took this particular photo above on a previous drive around the peninsula in the month of June, hence why everywhere is set up for the season.
Rounding The Çukurbağ Loop
As we get to the tip of the loop and round it to the other side, the undulations are steep.
And, as with so many other places around the country that are in a stunning setting, the peace and quiet is temporarily interrupted, here.
And as the years progress, no doubt construction will take place elsewhere on the peninsula. We’re not in an undiscovered area, here.
But we were walking for the exercise and the views. Down the hill and back up high again – just to the right as you can see in the photo.
As we reach the top of the hill, the views once more open out over the Mediterranean and we’re looking over islets and islands and the deep blue sea.
A Bit Of Greek
First, we’re looking across to the uninhabited Greek island of Ro.
Ro holds a significant place in history due to its famous inhabitant, the Lady of Ro – Despina Achladiotou.
Born in 1890 on the Greek island of Kastellorizo, she was a Greek patriot who rowed over to live on the uninhabited island with her husband.
She remained there after the passing of both her husband and mother, raising the Greek flag daily.
You can read more about Despina Achladiotou online. But she passed in 1982 at the age of 92 and her actions led to her being given a burial on the island with full military honours.
There’s a monument to her and a few artefacts in the archaeological museum on Meis (Kastellorizo).
And then, just a little further along the road, at this point, it feels like you could just reach out across the water and touch Meis with your fingertips.
This is the side of Meis island where the airport is – somehow, planes do come in to land, here – and it’s amazing how, despite having walked just a few kilometres along the peninsula the angles and the proximity of this island change so much.
A Bit Of Peninsula Solitude
From here, the road is high and there’s more of a feeling of solitude as you look out over the sea to the islets between Kaş and Meis.
If you’re anything like us, you’ll be feeling the effects of the undulations of the road by now.
But the everpresent beautiful Mediterranean views more than make up for this and keep you on the move – after you’ve stopped a few times to take numerous photos.
It’s an easy road to follow, as you can see in the photo above.
And don’t worry about the fact that it is a road. Remember, this is a winter walk – out of season. There are precious few people or vehicles around here at this time of year.
It’s (mainly) just you and the glorious scenery.
As we were following the coastline, a couple of boats carrying scuba divers anchored in one of the small bays – easy to see why when we looked down at the azure waters.
We were slowly getting closer to completing our loop of the Çukurbağ Peninsula.
Eventually, over the rocky coastline, we get our first sighting of the centre of Kaş in the distance.
We continue our walk and complete the loop before once more heading back along the road to town, passing the beaches and the ancient theatre.
And then that steep road that we climbed right at the beginning of our walk…
That is now the steep road to trundle down and onwards back to the square.
And at the square, you’ll find oodles of places where you can park yourself for quenching your thirst and/or getting something to eat.
Perfect reward!
Kaş Çukurbağ Peninsula – Useful Info
- We did the walk in winter which meant roads were quiet and the weather was cool. There are still places to swim if it’s a warm day.
- From the square in Kaş, the walk around the peninsula is 12 kilometres with a total elevation gain of 182 metres. (Check out the map below where you can click on points of interest.)
- You’ll need comfortable footwear and water.
- The walk took us just short of 3 hours, including stops for photos. Allow extra time if you want to swim or stop at the ancient theatre.
- If you are staying in Kaş in season, the Çukurbağ Peninsula has numerous hotels, villas and a campsite.
- There are also standalone restaurants of various styles from pizzas and burgers to fine dining establishments. When we walked in February, these were closed but there was a small market half way round for buying refreshments. Many of these places are perfect for viewing the sunset.
- In season, there is also a dolmuş service (bus) that heads around the peninsula to the various hotels and complexes.