Just over an hour’s drive, southeast from where we live in Fethiye, sits one of the prettiest places along the Turkish Turquoise Coast; Kalkan.
Lapped by the dazzlingly clear waters of the Mediterranean Sea, Kalkan old town – and the modern world behind it – climb up the (outrageously) steep hillside that rises from those waters.
And it’s a town with a magnetic pull that draws its visitors back time and time again.
Whether it’s to one of the private villas and apartments that have spread like climbing ivy, clinging to the surrounding hillside, or to exclusive boutique hotels, there’s a distinct absence of mass tourism, here.
That absence, the pretty cobbled streets lined with bougainvillea-clad Ottoman Greek buildings, the breathtaking sea views from on high…Kalkan has a loyal following.
And whilst this loyal following has been predominantly British, as the years pass, people of other nationalities are beginning to discover the charm of Kalkan.
We’ll hold our hands up, here – being a personal blog and all!
Probably because of their close proximity to each other, the towns of Kaş and Kalkan (Kalkan is now part of the larger Kaş Municipality) are often compared. And people tend to prefer one over the other.
We definitely fall into the Kaş camp.
But don’t allow that to sway you in any way. It’s each to their own and it’s just about the vibe for us.
And most people we speak to adore the Kalkan vibe – a relaxed atmosphere.
A Bit Of The Kalkan Food Scene
In the old historic town of Kalkan there must be the highest number of restaurants per square metre than just about anywhere else in the country.
And if you’re a foodie, whether you’re looking for quality traditional Turkish food, fresh fish, seafood, grills or international dishes, if it’s your first time in Kalkan we suggest doing a bit of restaurant research before you arrive.
The reason being, there are countless restaurants lining these narrow streets, the seaside waterfront and the areas beyond.
Many with a great reputation.
Whenever we wander around the old town, it is mind-boggling just how many places to eat there are. Where do you even start?
Some of these places might just look like a simple doorway on the street. But you need to know that Kalkan has numerous roof terrace restaurants.
Head through these simple doorways and onto the terraces and you’re in for a great view. Be that a street view where you can watch the world below you go by – or fabulous views over the rooftops to the pretty whitewashed mosque, the harbour and the sea beyond.
Beyond Kalkan Centre
We’re at the western edge of the Taurus Mountains, here, so it’s easy to head up into the hills for a bit of cool, fresh air and some more rustic dining.
We’ve never been to the village of Islamlar (yet), famous for its trout restaurants.
But we have driven to Bezirgan (consult you wits if you have a thing with heights and winding mountain roads).
The views back down to Kalkan and over the sea are nothing short of stupendous!
Once in Bezirgan – a whole world away from the buzz of coastal life way below, you can enjoy a leisurely Turkish village breakfast and other meals.
Time your breakfast right and you won’t need to eat for the rest of the day!
A Bit Of History
From the architecture of Kalkan old town, it’s easy to see that there was a substantial Greek population here during the Ottoman period.
In those days, Kalkan was called Kalamaki.
When the population exchange of 1923 took place, as with nearby Kayaköy in Fethiye (and numerous other places), the Greeks of Kalamaki were forced to move to Greece whilst many Turks in Greece were forced to move to the new Turkish Republic.
Kalkan’s pretty white-washed mosque – such a feature of the town – was a Greek Orthodox church. And higher up in the old town, you can also see a church bell on display from 1897.
Ottoman period homes, shops and workshops became the shops, restaurants and hotels that make Kalkan so special today and ensure its visitors return time and again.
And as this is a protected area with listed buildings, it should stay that way.
Down To The Harbour
As you might expect, Kalkan has a long maritime history.
And following the population exchange, Kalkan was chosen as the town’s name because of its meaning.
One of the translations of Kalkan is ‘shield’ and the bay here is the only sheltered bay between Kaş and Fethiye.
As such, it was apparently an important port – a cargo hub with goods such as olive oil, silk and timber being loaded onto cargo ships. And then transported across the Mediterranean.
These days, that sheltered harbour is where you can board shuttle boats to take you to the nearby beach clubs.
You can also book a daily boat trip from Kalkan harbour which will take you to some of the beautiful bays around this part of the Turkish coast.
Whilst a longer trip will take you out to Simena Kaleköy and Kekova Sunken City.
Honestly, it is impossible to exaggerate how clear, cool and blissful the turquoise waters are around these parts.
Don’t miss a chance to be out on the water in some capacity whilst you’re in Kalkan!
Along The Waterfront
If you’ve conquered walking up and down the steep narrow streets of Kalkan, this is the mercifully flat area where you can get a breather.
There’s a good few waterfront restaurants and cafes here. And a good dose of welcome shade, too!
And then, just further along is a little bit of Kalkan that always gives a warm glow.
There’s no doubting that Kalkan is an upmarket destination. And there are numerous beach clubs where you can pay for beds and parasols for the day and drink and dine at the beach club restaurant areas.
Kalkan is a rocky area so these ‘beaches’ tend to be wooden platforms built onto the rock faces.
But a walk down the steep, stone paved alleyways of the old town until you get to the bottom – and there’s the Kalkan Halk Plajı.
The public beach.
This beach has held Blue Flag status every year since 2010. And it’s a place where you can just wander into the azure waters at your whim.
A perfect place to take a dip and cool down without feeling the need to spend a whole day at a beach club.
You might want to put your beach shoes on first, though. Pebbles galore!
Kalkan – A Perfect Exploration Base
If you like to get out and explore the surrounding area where you’re based then you can’t go far wrong when staying in Kalkan.
Ancient Historical Sites
Kalkan is at the heart of the Turkish Lycian coast. And, of course, the Lycian Way long distance footpath passes through the mountains, here.
There are oodles of sites that you can visit. But these are the main ones that are nearby…
A short drive gets you to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the ancient Lycian city of Xanthos. Lycian rock tombs, the ruins of a Byzantine church, the Harpy Tomb – not to be missed.
As is the joint UNESCO site, Letoon, where archaeologists are currently restoring the ancient theatre. And big plans are afoot for the Temple of Leto also.
Beach & Ancient History Combined
The local dolmuş (minibus public transport) heads to stunning Patara Beach from Kalkan.
Shallow waters, a vast expanse of soft sand and sand dunes and the ancient ruins of Patara where groundbreaking archaeological work has just taken place with the rebuilding of the ancient lighthouse. Most of it with the original stones!
Kaputaş Beach
Just a 10 minute journey from Kalkan.
We won’t repeat ourselves here as we’re written about Kaputaş Beach, already.
This is a place for the hardiest beach-goers – and we’re not hardy beach-goers. We prefer to view from above.
Short Trip To Kaş & Greece
Just a 35 minute drive from Kalkan – along what we think is one of the most beautiful stretches of the D400 road – is the pretty town of Kaş.
One of our favourite places! there’s lots to see and do in Kaş.
And just a 20 minute sail across the water from Kaş is the Greek island of Meis (Kastellorizo).
Picture postcard pretty. And, in our opinion, definitely worth a trip over.
Do this trip under your own steam so you can explore both in one day. Or you can book an organised trip to Meis from Kalkan.
Cooling Off
Very busy in high season (July and August) but an approximate 40 minute drive will get you to Saklıkent Gorge and the slightly less crowded Gizlikent Waterfall where there are also other activities on offer.
Spectacular scenery and ice cold water. Just the ticket in hot weather!
Book an organised trip to Saklıkent from Kalkan and this will also take in one of our favourite archaeological sites: The ancient city of Tlos.
Market Day
And last but not least, we love to support local markets. And market day in Kalkan is Thursday.
But if you also love markets – and shopping in general – as we said right at the beginning of this article, our hometown of Fethiye is around an hour away from Kalkan.
Make a day of it and explore some of the best things to do in Fethiye – which includes our huge Tuesday market.
Kalkan – Useful Information
- If you’re arriving by air to Kalkan, the nearest airport is Dalaman Airport which is just under 2 hours away.
- Alternatively, Antalya Airport is just over 3 hours away.
- Kalkan Otogar (bus station) is on the edge of town. From here, you can walk downhill to the old town. If you are staying overnight or longer and your accommodation is up the hill, you’ll likely need a taxi. Hills are steep around here!
- Kalkan is an easy day trip from Fethiye if you’re in these parts and you want to have a look around. We recommend taking the bus from Fethiye Otogar as parking a car in Kalkan can be a challenge in high season.