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November-December In Fethiye: Goodbye Summer, Hello Winter

It’s time for our final monthly Fethiye news roundup of 2024. How on earth did that happen?

A silhouette of a fisherman on a beachy seashore at sunset.
It was a month of Çalış beachy walks and sunsets

The final one, because our end of December roundup is always reserved for a look back on the whole year.

So, guess we’d best get cracking on before the year disappears altogether!

This was November…

A month of being blessed with lots of relaxing Çalış Beach walks, afternoon drinks at EY’s and Calisto and early evening sunsets.

At times, the Fethiye weather has also managed to come up with our much needed rain – albeit a tad too heavy at times, causing floods in the town centre on one evening.

But before that, we had the last of our summer-holidaying friends here during the first week of November. They were lucky with the balmy temperatures.

An outdoor table and four chairs beside a sea wall. The sea is in the background.
Seating is allowed along the opposite side of the promenade in winter

And then, after that, as our summer season drew to a close, so the belediye (local municipality) also decided that autumn-winter was here.

The restaurants were allowed to place their tables and chairs along the beach wall – a common winter feature – so that people can sit closer to the beach and sea.

The final few sun loungers and parasols were collected up from the beach and taken to their winter hibernation zone.

And any remaining Çalış boats and water taxis were helped out of the water and put into their dry dock winter home.

One water taxi was left in the water until mid-November because the weather was so warm and there were still a good few people looking to use it to get them to the Tuesday market. Great to see!

But now, yes, we are officially in winter mode!

Both in Turkey and in the UK, November is, of course, the month where we have significant days of remembrance.

On 10th November, we commemorate the passing of the founder of the Turkish Republic, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

At 9:05am, the time of his passing, much of the country falls silent.

Ankara's Anıtkabir mausoleum building in front of cloudy skies.
A visit to Anıtkabir is a must in you’re ever in Ankara

His mausoleum, Anıtkabir, is in the capital, Ankara.

Greece’s second city, Thessaloniki, is where Atatürk was born. And, especially at this time of year, many Turks head to the city to visit his house, which is now a museum.

A great article about this in November in The Guardian.

In the UK, we remember the fallen of the First and Second World Wars and subsequent conflicts.

A large marble monument in Haydarpaşa Cemetery, Istanbul.
A monument commemorating soldiers who died in WW1 in Haydarpaşa Cemetery

In Istanbul, there is a Commonwealth Graves Commission Cemetery, Haydarpaşa Cemetery, where commemorative services are held.

At this time, our thoughts also go back to our visit to the Cassino War Cemetery in Italy.

A day for everything; for everything a day. And a week and a month, for that matter.

A tray of baked baklava squares topped with ground pistachio.
Baklava Day was on 17th November

But anyway, in November, we celebrated:

And then on 1st December, we had the annual Çalış Christmas Fayre.

A man on a street stall preparing hot dogs. Sausages are cooking on a griddle.
It’s traditional for us to have a bratwurst at the Christmas Fayre

For anyone not feeling festive in the area, this is always a great event, even for the ‘bah humbug’ brigade.

Lots of foreign and Turkish shoppers, too, who are there to enjoy the atmosphere, eat the street foods and stock up on Christmas (for us) and New Year (for Turkish families) decorations and gifts.

Hisarönü and Üzümlü have their own fayres on the 7th December this year.

And if the fayres aren’t festive enough, we also, of course, have the Feast of St. Nicholas on 5th-6th December, depending on where you live.

We all know St. Nicholas is responsible for the legends and customs around Santa Claus.

Interior Of St Nicholas Church, Demre. People are inside, taking photos.
St. Nicholas’ church and tomb are in Demre

And, of course, St. Nicholas was born in Patara before becoming Bishop of Myra (today’s Demre).

Pilgrims visit the St. Nicholas Church, containing his tomb, throughout the year. But these early December dates are, naturally, very important.

Seasonal food, that is.

And we love this time of year for eating seasonally.

A few days ago, we bought our first little helping of Black sea anchovies (Karadeniz hamsi) of the season. And, as is tradition for us with that first helping, we did hamsi tava with it.

Fresh anchovies fried in corn flour and served with sliced onion, rocket and a lemon wedge.
Black Sea anchovies – hamsi tava – served with a simple salad garnish

We could freeze the hamsi and eat it throughout the year. But if we did that, we would miss out on that delicious, satisfying first taste of the season.

Cauliflower and pomegranate is also in season.

And if you’re looking for a festively-coloured veggie dish to enjoy, try this roasted cauliflower and pomegranate dish.

An above shot of roasted cauliflower florets topped with pomegranate and chopped fresh coriander. This is sitting on a bed of tahini sauce.
It just looks festive!

We’re yet to see an abundance of çintar mushrooms (saffron milk cap) on the local markets due to the fact that the rain hasn’t been abundant in the right areas but we’re sure that will change in the coming days and weeks.

In the meantime, chestnut mushrooms it is! And they’re perfect for this stuffed mushrooms recipe – mantar dolması.

Mushrooms stuffed with cheese and Turkish sausage.
Mmm, we love stuffed mushrooms

Great party food!

Well, we’ve already told you a few of the things we’ve been cooking in the kitchen. But we’ve also been busy with other general cooking.

And, a new blog post has been added to our Turkish recipes section.

A collage of four photos showing the Turkish spice blend process.
Turkish spice blend – toast, grind, mix together

We can’t tell you how useful we’ve found our Turkish spice blend for cooking with over the last couple of weeks or so.

We’re not exaggerating when we say it is a very handy go-to just to add a bit of pizzazz to weeknight food.

We usually have some homemade meze of some description in the fridge – and sometimes, it gets to the point when it really needs to be eaten!

So, we’re just gonna drop a random, throwaway tip in here because it went down well when we shared it on our Facebook page.

We’d made another dish that happened to leave us with lots of leftover baked potato skins.

No big chore getting rid of those! Who doesn’t love yummy potato skins?

A shallow terracotta bowl with a yoghurt dip containing grated carrots. A spoon is laid on its side in the bowl.
A big dollop of this in hot, crispy potato skins…

Anyway, if you happen to have some Turkish carrot and garlic yoghurt dip (havuç tarator) in your fridge and some baked potato skins…

We’re just saying. Perfect combo!

Also on the blog, over the years, we have written often of our love for the famous Turkish street food, kokoreç.

A hand holding a soft crusty cob filled with chopped kokoreç.
We love our kokoreç

In November, that love was consolidated into the all important celebration of kokoreç.

And not before time!

We’re a bit behind schedule this year – nothing new there – but it’s not too late to make up your own mincemeat for your homemade mince pies.

A dozen Christmas mince pies topped with star-shaped pastry.
There’s still time to make your mince pie filling

We also shared our winter chutney recipe in November.

Again, we’re yet to make ours. But it will still taste great as part of our Christmas food and we make a big batch that lasts us a good few months.

And a really cold snap in November meant we deserved our first bubbling hot bowl of beyran çorbası (Gaziantep lamb soup) at Can Çekti.

A bowl of soup with a spoon lifting out pieces of lamb and rice.
A meaty steaming bowl of comfort – our homemade beyran çorbası

We’re hoping to have lamb for our Christmas dinner this year so we’ll definitely be making our own beyran soup for Boxing Day!

Our little section of other news stories that have caught our eye over the last few weeks…

Many of you will be aware of the recent rapid growth of social media outlet, Bluesky.

We’ve decided to be part of that growth by creating an account.

Come on over and follow us on Bluesky.

Archaeologists in Turkey are on a mission to make the fountains of the country’s ancient cities flow again.

First, it was Sagalassos. Then it was the turn of the huge monumental fountain of Kibyra.

Springtime scene overlooking the ancient Perge ruins. Wildflowers are in the foreground with three tall palm trees to the right.
The ancient city of Perge now has a flowing fountain

In November, it was announced that the water is once more flowing in the fountain of the ancient city of Perge, near Antalya city centre.

A revisit to see that is definitely needed!

And finally, big congratulations to the Muğla Province’s, Nejla Işık, who has made it onto the BBC’s annual list of the 2024 world’s 100 most influential women.

The list celebrates women “who, through their resilience, are pushing for change as the world changes around them.”

Nejla Işık is the village head of İkizköy, a farmer and forest campaigner.

For the last five years, she has lead protests to protect the Akbelen Forest from logging that was being carried out for mining projects.

You can see the full list, here.

And that’s it!

Our next news roundup will be looking at the highlights of a 2024 that’s flown by – with some articles before then, too.

We’ve got a cracking recipe next up for you. Stay tuned…

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BacktoBodrum

Sunday 8th of December 2024

Thanks for the catch up. I'm a bit slow to return to my blogging ways but you've just given me over twenty reasons to get back to regular blog reading.

Turkey's For Life

Thursday 9th of January 2025

Hi Annie, we love your updates about life in Bodrum. Hope you continue. :) Ha ha, thanks for reading ours!